Some 60KM of dirt road separated me from my entry point of Leano Lake. I chuckled at about the 1/2 way point where the road becomes only wide enough for one vehicle accompanied by a sign that states "unmaintained proceed at own risk". Hit the water about 5 P.M. and accomplished only a short distance, just a hop, skip and a jump to Bunny Lake. Evening time and all is incredibly quiet and still. Mosquitos are conspicuous by their absence. Early start tomorrow with lots of time consuming portages to arrive at Mexican Hat Lake.
8/6 Day-2
Wow, what a day! Broke camp and was on the water about 8 A.M. and arrived at Mexican Hat at 6:30 P.M. and was able to snatch the awesome campsite at the base of the falls. Long day which was complicated by sightseeing trips (navigation errors) to view the rare and not oft seen Dual Crested Weeble Warbler. Things got very interesting when I got confused reading the map and thought I was one lake ahead. Eventually I just started reading my compass and adopted a mantra- "just go north". Only when I didn't arrive at Mexican Hat lake when I thought I should have did I discover my error.
Beautiful day, very little wind and once again very few mosquitos. Settling in for the night and will be lulled to sleep by the sound of the falls.
8/7 Day-3
The last 2 days have been an amazing blend of creeks and a maze like variety of lakes both large and small. Today I met 2 separate groups of paddlers. One group cued me to a lake with big Lake Trout and the other group suggested a decent campsite on Beamish Lake where I sit at this very moment. I rolled in around 6 P.M. feeling pretty well spent after fighting the wind for a good portion of the day. I like my situation however as I am near the 850 meter portage which leads to Irregular lake. Hopefully I can find a good site to call home for the several days I intend to be there. One wildlife sighting of note occurred today immediately after leaving the 2nd group of paddlers where I paddled up on a Moose in the close confines of a creek.
8/8 Day-4
Through the winter I had read the journals of another paddler of these environs of Woodland Caribou Provincial Park. His motto while he was out was "make good decisions" which is certainly a wise way to proceed when your all alone and far from anything and everything. I thought about adopting the motto but what kept coming to my mind was "coolest trip ever".
The 850 meter portage was the most interesting portage so far. I parked the boat a stones throw away and still didn't see it. I examined the map and decided it must be further ahead ("Hark, Do I hear the call of the Weeble Warbler?"). Two paddle strokes later I peered into the tall marsh grass and spotted what looked like a beaver run. "Might as well check it out" I muttered even though there were no blazes on any of the trees. Bingo, one found portage trail. I liked the trail as it was a mix of swamp and some steep stuff. An Osprey shrieked its annoyance for a full twenty minutes and probably would of liked to take my head off if it could of. Eventually I understood its rage as I passed close to its nest while tromping along.
I have been triple portaging the entire way since leaving the truck (3 trips across each trail) and am glad of it. Finally I am to my destination, Irregular Lake! My thoughts had been on finding a campsite but before I even set the boat in the water I look to my right and a short distance away is a little point with water on 3 sides, home sweet home! And what a great site it turned out to be with an excellent landing, easy access to retrieve water, slightly elevated, sandy bottom for swimming and pines for some shade. Can't ask for much more especially in this country.
I arrived at noon and I noticed was that it was a bit hot so the first thing I did was ditch the clothes and spent the rest of the day in camp fashionably attired with Sperry Sandals and Smith Sunglasses. I spent over an hour with the small Silky Saw opening the site up a tad. I created a couple of nice "picture windows" and removed any dead limbs which obstructed walking lanes. Even tiny dead branches were pruned to a level above head high. Nice! Now I feel I can walk about freely without being concerned about getting poked in the eye. Then I commenced on picking up ground clutter, branches and small twigs were removed and placed outside of camp. Next on the agenda was erecting my tent and tarp. Place is starting to shape up rather nicely. Lastly I processed a batch of wood and stacked it next to the fire ring so I can grill some fish.
8/9 Day-5
It is 7:30 and breakfast, coffee and devotions are completed. Now its finally time to fish. Irregular is a fairly large and complex lake with a myriad of islands, points and bays. This lends itself well should the wind come up, there should always be someplace that offers protection. Off I go.....
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What a stellar day! Decided to leave the area around camp to explore in the evening upon my return and range far afield early. Irregular Lake is stunningly beautiful and the most attractive body of water I have thus far seen on the trip. I found a decent sized weed bed and the pike were there for the taking. I filleted one and had a shore lunch and mulled about wondering where the Muskies could be. That was after all, the entire point of choosing this lake in the first place. I had cast and trolled for hours without a strike. It has been said that Musky are the fish of 10,000 casts and I was starting to become a believer. The wind had picked up and it would take me back toward the direction of camp so I drifted back all while casting my large lures. For the next 2 hours I flailed away without so much as a sniff from a fish.
It was late afternoon now and I had made it back to the large bay where my camp was and I continued casting. WHAM- I missed the strike but I kept the big spinner coming and the fish chased and hit again with its head coming out of the water while trying the clobber the Cowgirl in-line spinner....again another miss on my part. I decided to leave the fish alone and try her another time with a different lure. Finally a bite from what I think was a Musky. Made my way back to camp for a 10 minute nap and a cup of Starbucks Cinnamon Dulce hot chocolate which was superb.
Back in the boat for the evening bite. I went with a large Phantom soft tail jerk type bait. It wasn't long before it was nailed and a fish probably in the 38"/40" range went completely airborne on the hook set only to come unglued. Wow, how do these fish not get stuck on 8/0 treble hooks? Nevertheless I have renewed confidence that the fish are here and not far from camp. The wind lays down and I put a large topwater lure on, a Pacemaker, stick it in the rod holder and start paddling. KERPOW, fish on! I ease into the shore and get out to fight and land the fish. Not big by Musky standards only going about 10lbs but it still tightened my string. I am finding out these Musky are so much stronger than pike.
Things are looking up. Three Musky bites the past 3 hours with one landed, not bad for a beginner. The bay around camp has my attention but I still like to travel so my plan on the morrow will be to range far early and hit home base late. Good day!
8/10 Day-6
So far wildlife sightings have been good with several eagles, a pair of Osprey a Moose at close quarters, an extremely fat and rotund rodent on Bunny Lake and yesterday an otter with only 2 pups with her. An oddity of note happened at a landing when a large an unusual insect came buzzing along the surface of the water. I had never seen anything quite like it so I fixed my eyes on the hydroplaning event as it skated across the water and eventually landed near me at a smooth rock. Immediately a black wasp relinquished its grip on a substantial wolf spider, clambered ashore and then quickly returned for its prize. Whereupon it reassumed its grip and, after dragging the large prize ashore, took flight. Later that same day I seen not one but two rather good sized Wolf Spiders floating in the water upside down with their legs curled inward but still quite fresh looking. I can only surmise it is the work of wasps who have lost their grip on their bounty. Perhaps they should listen to Jonathan Livingston Wasp who choose to do things a bit differently.
Lightning and rain came in the night but I was confident that all was secure. A cold front has blown in so I stayed tucked in my sleeping bag until 8 A.M. and have been easing about camp waiting for the wind to subside. The gear I have is a blessing and a pleasure to use in and of itself.
Its getting a bit on in the day now, cool and cloudy with a good breeze. I'm off to the Irregular River but best to pack some warm clothes in case I don't make it back to camp by nightfall. I trolled my way to the Irregular River while stopping to walk the portage to Mather Lake. I had put a Mouldys topwater lure behind the boat to click and clack and basically make a fuss while paddling. The topwater is a good choice while exploring as it needs no attention and is capable of taking a big fish. The area between the bay I am camped on and the Irregular river is quite awesome with lots of points, islands and reefs coupled with a few weedbeds.
I hit the Irregular river and decided against going further inside. I had wanted to follow it and gain access to Trident Lake but Claire at the park office said the old portage into Trident was blocked. Fair enough, besides I have my hands full here on this big body of water. I made my way back to a weed bed in hopes of securing a pike for a shore lunch and then BANG- a fair sized musky inhaled a Funky Chicken spinnerbait. I eased to shore, fish in tow for a quick photo and release. Then, while making lunch I made a monumental error in judgment which could have potential consequences. If all ends well it is merely supremely humiliating and will be the source of much good natured pokes in the future.
I had decided a cup of coffee was in order to accompany the pan full of hash browns I was preparing and I chose a very poor place indeed to scoop a cup of water. A steeply sided smooth rock with a bit of slime on it proved my undoing. I thought I could delicately balance while scooping but my slide was irreversible starting out slow and gentle and eventually deposited my person into the water. The water was deeper than my first glance and the next thing I know I am dog paddling. To add injury to insult my Hydrostatic life vest decided it was time to inflate. The next thing to inflate was my anger and I will admit to some rather poor language issuing forth as I was furious with myself. I'm sure it would of made quite a humorous youtube video all things considered.
After I wrenched myself ashore I wasn't sure which was worse, losing my temper or losing my life jackets effectiveness. I had brought along the book "Anger and stress management Gods Way" and quickly decided the anger exhibited was not the correct and just sort. Reading something is far easier than applying it and being an authentic Christian person is certainly not easy. On the other hand I took solace in the fact I am not alone in the endeavor for "He who has started a good work in me is faithful to complete it"...... Amen!
I had dried out and decided the position was favorable for casting so out went the Phantom soft tail. BANG, right next to the rock I was standing on came the strike. I got to see the fish come up and inhale the lure. I let her turn and go down and then set the hook, fish on! But wait, it looks exactly like the fish I had released an hour ago prior hook marks and all. Add in the lack of fight and I'm convinced I caught the same fish twice!
Off I went, life preserver blown up with just enough air to help keep me afloat with the stem readily available for the 3 good breathes required to inflate it. But my safety margin has been cut thats for sure. I decided to let the wind blow me along and cast the good water I had passed earlier. The highlights were a fish blowing up on the Phantom but missing the bait, another fish glued to the rear of a topwater bait creating big wake while following it to the boat and a fish striking a Savage eel lure and then following it right to the boat. So far all the fish seem to be cut from the same mold all in that 38" to 40" range and about 10lbs. Fun stuff but perserverance is required as well as the right equipment. I have been using a Shimano Tranx reel and a 7.5' Bass Pro Musky rod. This is a very sweet set up and makes tossing the big stuff all day a pleasure. I suspect however, that smaller lures will take this size fish more readily. Something along the size of a 6" flat rap would be killer. There is no abundance or variety of prey here so the nearshore fish are probably used to eating small stuff, no baby smallmouths or walleyes to key on.
8/11 Day 7
This morning is fantastic. Perfectly calm and quiet with a bit of fog on the water and a big full moon still beaming in the dawn light. Neat! As I am writing this I am distracted by an odd call. At first I thought it was a Raven but something was different and I listened intently. Soon the plaintive call was answered by a a low grunt of sorts and I thought perhaps it was a bear with a cub or a moose with a calf and I continued writing. Shortly thereafter I heard a single solitary twig snap coming from the direction of my latrine area. I quickly gathered myself and walked towards the direction of the sound and peered into the woods while standing quite motionless. I waited for what seemed to be a longtime but in actuality was only probably a couple of minutes and along comes a good sized Lynx. It was as quiet as a shadow and when motionless it was almost imperceptible although it was quite close. I stood motionless as our eyes locked. If the cat perceived me I know not as there was no sign of alarm and it merely ghosted out of sight. I waited in hopes of seeing a kitten but if it were there it didn't avail itself. Now that was amazing!
Well enough Yackety Schmackety, weather is calm and I think I will do some precision trolling with some big crank baits in the main body of the lake..
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The best laid plans of mice and men. So much for precision trolling. I had made another cup of coffee and had been thinking about the Lynx and how quietly it had shown up. Couldn't a bear just "show up" in camp just as easily? Turn around and there one is big as life? Of course silly, bears do live in the woods after all. And then I considered my response, ease off and let him smell around camp and when he finds nothing of interest he will leave. That is usually what happens but not always. Then I considered my Bear Spray which was uselessly packed neatly away. What to do? I decided to use the pole supporting my tarp as a central location to keep my bear spray. Unobtrusive up near the top, protected but out of the way and yet readily available. I employed a rubber coated twist tie to make a hook of sorts and it turned out excellent. Only one problem, while reaching up and doing the manipulations my back decides to go into spasms.
The pain wasn't terrible but it certainly got my attention in a hurry lest it decide to go downhill. I would be in a bad way should my back decide to rebel. I took an Alleve and laid back down. What to do? Last trip I had brought Tiger Balm and it was a Godsend but this trip I had neglected to pack some. Dumbkopf! I needed the wisdom of God, asked for it and received an answer before the words had barely left my mouth. I took my air mattress, my MSR pack towel (Shamwow) and then I heated some water and made a "hot bed" of sorts. I positioned myself in the warm sun and read Gods Word which is the best healing remedy I know of.
It is now 2 P.M. and I feel much better. I have been working hard every day depending on a good nights sleep to restore me. I really need to get into the habit of stretching and perhaps doing some Yoga to stay loose. There is little doubt I am tightening up some and thrashing about in the water yesterday probably didn't help matters any. Maybe I had better take another look at Mike K's motto of "make good decisions" again. I'll give him credit the first 3 times I use it and then its mine.
Went out for an afternoon troll with a Legend jointed Perch Bait. What a Lure! Within 10 minutes I had a small musky inhale the bait and unfortunately was gill hooked and soon expired. Then 10 minutes later I hooked a nice fat northern. All catching of fish subsequently ceased as I trolled what I termed as the "Dead Sea" which was the northern portion of the bay I am camped on. It was a shallow, flat featureless basin which inspired little confidence. I reversed course and hit the main lake since all was calm and it was there I hooked the largest musky yet. Still not the one I am looking for but the big crank bait is definitely producing.
On my way back to camp I put another good fish 4ft in the air but it came unglued. I have decided it would be borderline insane to handle these fish from boat side so I keep the rod in the rod holder and paddle to shore where I get out to land the fish. Safer for me and easier on the fish. So far all the muskies have swam away with the exception of the small one. I have yet to measure or weigh any of them as I want to release them as soon as possible. The Vu-Vantage camera mount is making taking pictures quick and easy.
Back to camp for a quick fish fry and my new guilty pleasure- Nido powdered whole milk and Starbucks salted carmel hot chocolate. A few things have puzzled me, I have yet to see a turtle and I have seen only 1 crayfish. And the biggest surprise is the almost complete absence of mosquitos. A friend had just come out of this very park only 10 days earlier and his advice was to pack a headnet. Even Claire at the park office commented on the winged menace remarking that there was a "bumper crop". It is sure nice to be in camp without being continually pestered.
8/12 Day 8
Today I have put in my greatest fishing effort yet and have achieved the worst results. One small (and lucky) musky who followed a spoon into shore and 2 small pike were landed. After yesterdays "just add water" success of trolling deeper I thought I was going to pound them. No dice! I left camp at 8 A.M. and fished until 5 P.M. with little to show other than having found some good spots to fish later. Back in camp for a swim, a nap and a hot chocolate. Back on the water from 7:30 until 10:00 (dark) and still no bites. Today was still a great day but a dud from a fishing perspective. Of course that only means they will eat tomorrow! I have set the alarm for 6 A.M. as I intend to troll around the entire lake. See the lay of the land and check for baitfish concentrations. It will likely take the vast majority of the day and then it will be back to camp to put a few things in order as I have decided to pull up stakes a day early.
8/13 Day 9
As it turned out I was extremely fortunate to have chosen this day to do a tour of Irregular lake. It was one of those rare days in the north country which was calm all day long. I started out using a topwater lure and then switched to a spinnerbait and finally caught a good pike on the Double Cowgirl. I filleted the pike and put it into a wet sack for later. All in all fishing was pretty slim. I made my way to the southern portion of Irregular lake and it was quite a difference. More shallow water and more weeds but I still couldn't get on any fish try as I might. Navigation without a GPS was a bit tricky but I still managed to find the southern 800 meter portage out of Irregular and walked it. The first leg is open and despite a few steep spots I wouldn't hesitate to use it.
I was back in the boat and muttered to myself that it was about time to eat some thing and at that exact moment I looked to my left and the absolute perfect spot presented itself for a shore lunch. While I was eating the Pike and some stove top stuffing a small dead fish came floating by. I was keenly interested to see what sort of fish inhabited the lake but it was just a small dead perch. Almost instantly I knew I was going to run the large perch colored Butcher shallow Raider (which still dived to 13ft). I was also hesitant to continue on. It was after 2 P.M. and further in meant further out. As long as I didn't have any navigation malfunctions I felt I could be back by 10:30. Out went the big lure and away we went. I honestly didn't have it out 5 minutes and it was crushed. A nice pike of some 36" to 38" going about 9 or 10lbs was brought boat side. Nice! 10 minutes later a carbon copy of the first and then another and another! I was starting to get concerned that I was catching to many fish and it would keep me from getting back before dark, after all I had a long way to go. Eventually I found myself back on the northern part of the lake where I trolled up 4 more nice pike. But what really fired me up was a Musky in the mid to upper teens which blasted the lure while I was cutting points (paddling from one point of land to the other rather than following the lands contours). The fish hit in 20ft but was soon airborne some 4ft out of the water and put up quite a fuss. I eased the fish into the shoreline and then got out and reeled the fish to the bank. I had her right in the shallow water at my feet and was admiring when she shook her head and then swam off. I remember smiling at the time but she would of made a nice photo.
Onward I paddled and rounded a bend and not far ahead was a canoe with 2 fellows and a large sheepdog.We chatted away for some 20 minutes. They were a a father and son duo from Colorado and had been coming to Woodland Caribou for close to 20 years. I made friends with the big shaggy dog and it soon wanted to join me in my canoe and had to be restrained somewhat. That got my attention in a hurry as the dog was at least 85 lbs and probably a bit more. It would of been another Youtube moment but only with catastrophic results. Got back to camp around 8:30 P.M. which made for a big day indeed. Organized my gear for departure and hopefully an early start. Lots of ground to cover to arrive at the previously paddler recommended "Big Lake Trout Lake"( Agean Lake ). The weather will tell the tale if I arrive tomorrow evening or not.
8/14 Day 10
A small dead perch. Funny how seemingly inconsequential decisions can impact how things go. Had I not decided yesterday to pull into that little flat spot to have lunch I would of never seen the little dead perch come floating by which in turn prompted me to run the big perch colored crank bait. After some reflection I found it a bit odd that the small fish would go unnoticed by the nearby colony of white terns who were constantly swooping and diving on some sort of baitfish. Maybe terns don't eat small dead perch or maybe, just maybe, it was a sign from above. As per usual I have been doing things my way and have neglected to ask what lures to run. Could it be the Almighty just got so exasperated he said "Here, this is what to use!" I wouldn't be 1/2 surprised if my comical musings were true. What was also somewhat peculiar were all the nice fish including the musky came off of flat nothing bottom in 20ft. I had been previously focusing on breaks and bottoms filled with small boulders and jagged rocks. But I always run a line when I am fishing and hence the unexpected results. Yesterday took a bit out of me since paddling all day pulling big spinners or large crank baits is like pulling a large wool sock behind the boat......but what fun when the rod goes off!
It is 8 A.M. and the tent is down and breakfast demolished. Tarp is next and then in those infamous words of that one of a kind crooner Willie Nelson it will be "time to get on the road again".
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I had completed 2 of my 3 portage trips across the 850 meter portage when I noticed the Father and son duo coming towards me that I had met yesterday while on the water. I awaited their arrival and we pulled out maps and I showed him where I had caught several of the musky. In return and after inquiring of my destination he pointed out a campsite on Agean Lake which he considered very nice. I learned that he was a lawyer named Rob from the Denver area. Both he and his son left me with a good impression and I was pleased to have made their acquaintance. We exchanged emails, shook hands and parted company.
My destination was a little round circle that I had penned due to Robs suggestion. It was some miles distant and in spite of the late start I still felt like I was making good time. But that was soon annulled by a 10 minute navigation error and then a portage through a burned area which required considerable attention lest I become disorientated in the granite hilly country covered in downed timber. Nevertheless I arrived in the late afternoon around 6 P.M. to what I thought was the campsite that had been recommended. I unloaded a few bags and then decided to scope it out a bit more. Was this really the site they were so enamored with? The view was great but everything else was terrible with there not even being a flat spot to pitch the tent. The large boulders were there as described and a fire ring was present but all in all I decided that this couldn't be the site and despite being tired I loaded the stuff back in the boat to search about a bit more. A little distance away was another point and on it was another large boulder the size of a Mack truck ( the son had said "you can tell the site by the boulders"). Over I went and what a camp site! I feel totally blessed! This site is big enough for a large party. It has it all, a great landing, an unbelievable place to get water (you stand at the waters edge on a perfectly flat rock with 5' of H2O directly below) a sunset porch complete with its own fire ring. Lots of flat open ground to walk around. The only thing that was bothering me was the amount of dead pine trees which had been cut and stacked along the periphery of the site. Obviously this site had suffered in the big snowstorm and park service had come in and punched the site open.
I thought of the place in its glory years before the storm. If it was nice now imagine what it was like before all the blowdown. All it needed was some attention. The piles of dead wood were actually fairly light having aged a year or so. I spent over 2 hours dragging 10' dead cut pines outside of the camp. By the time I was done I had a pile of dead trees some 8' tall and easily the size of a pick up truck. I was just slow, steady and methodical. The silky saw came into use as well. Then I piled all the loose rock and small boulders into a pile out of the way. Finished up after dark and had to get ready for bed by headlamp. The plan is to stay here for 3 nights and check the fishing out. If it is good then this would definitely rate as a destination lake with lots of variety of water and this fabulous campsite.
I forgot to mention seeing another moose and a huge snapping turtle. Lights out, its almost midnight!
8/15 Day 11
Last night I awoke with a start and sat upright listening quite intently aided by a jolt of adrenaline. 5 minutes passed and I became drowsy thinking I had probably dreamed the noise but no sooner than I closed my eyes and it was distinctly repeated plain as day. "He's got my bags" were the words I uttered and I grabbed my headlamp and bear spray and went out to confront the intruder. The Princeton Vizz headlamp was quite comforting as it made darkness into daylight by lighting the entire campsite up. I checked on my food bag which was stashed outside of camp and it was undisturbed. Everything else was also in order. I was not exactly sure what it was that I had heard, perhaps a rodent clambering about on my bags?
Up sort of late, 8 A.M. and am in no particular hurry. I feel a little beat after the past 2 days. Yesterday, just before I arrived, I seen what looked like a swimming muskrat. I had seen one earlier in the day and now another presented itself. I kept waiting for the little bugger to go under the water and as I drew closer and closer I could make out the head, the eye and the tail moving from side to side as it eased along. I got within 10 ft before I realized I was looking at a rock protruding slightly above the water with some small waves giving the phantom creature some "motion". Wow, I thought, I must really be tired.
I feel extremely blessed to be here. The first canoeist I met suggested the lake and then Rob suggested the site. It is an amazing place. Lots of life in this area, moose, turtle and a huge variety of birdlife. The only thing missing is mosquitos! I am sitting on the "sunset porch" some 10' above the water level admiring a series of islands in a pair of shorts. The porch sticks out into the water and is separated from the main camp by 2 enormous side by side boulders with a slot between them just wide enough for 1 person to walk comfortably through. This achieves a private feel and also acts as a superb wind block for the rest of the camp. The main camp is bathed in the morning sunlight but the tent sites are set back a bit. Nice! Now I have to establish a latrine. Cut a little pathway back into the woods and dig a small hole. I have been burning all the toilet paper which seems like the responsible thing to do and ridiculously easy. On a final note before I set my sights on exploring the area I have decided to call the site "Robs Camp" in honor of the lawyer from Denver. If I am ever fortunate enough to come back here I will hang a small wooden sign that states "Welcome- Robs Camp".
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I just checked out the area above camp. Major game trail leading out of camp up to more diverse and hilly country. Very gamey looking area. Wouldn't be surprised to have some company of some sort or another in this campsite and as per my usual style I will keep a sparkling clean campsite. Time to split some wood.
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Wow, spent all day (4:30 P.M.) working on the site. The brush pile is a sight to behold but I found a place outside of camp so it is fairly unobtrusive. Park Service did a good job opening the site up but all the cuttings need to be dealt with. It is surprising what one person and a good hand saw is able to accomplish. I must admit a vested interest as I am already intending on a return visit. Perhaps if the fishing doesn't pan out like I hope it will I might entertain second thoughts but so far I am all in. Warm but windy today and I am quite glad I am in camp. The 2 previous paddle days were big days but it was calm. I should be on the water this afternoon but I am thumped. Hopefully tomorrow I will put a big day in on the water.
8/16 Day 12
Slept well last night even though my back was bothering me after the big work day. Yesterday evening I did some stretching and Yoga off the Sunset Porch. Pretty cool stuff and it certainly seemed to help. Last night some weather blew in and it is cool, cloudy and windy this morning. I took a prolonged hike above camp and 1/2 expected to see some game. Are there mountain lions in this country? Probably very few but this certainly seems like the sort of place one would hang out.
It is 10:45 and I have been lolly gagging about by reading, writing and hiking. Hoping the wind will lay as I would like to troll for some lake Trout. But I'm getting the itch so windy or not its time to check this place out.
I had intended to go towards the main lake as I suspect that is where I would find the Trout but the wind was up and I have no intention of being far from shore on a big lake in a little boat. The western portion of Agean lake has more islands and more protection so off I go. I stopped and walked the portage to South Agean lake as that is my route out in a few days. The trail is a short 100 meter pathway and was clear and looked fairly well used. I proceeded to the very upper end of the western half of Agean lake catching the odd small pike here and there but nothing of note. But what a beautiful lake! High granite faces appear sporadically soaring up 150' maybe even 200' straight up.
I made the turn in the mid afternoon and was a little perplexed as to the fish populations. I was marking exactly zip on the depth finder. But the day had turned fine and sunny and I was enjoying the paddling nonetheless. The extreme upper end is through a canyon of sorts and it was through this canyon that I was exiting to gain the main portion of the lake when something caught my eye and caused me to do a double take. The western portion of Agean is probably a mile wide and 1/3 of the way out from shore was the unmistakable brown form of an animal. I thought perhaps it had antlers or horns but from this distance it was tough to tell. The as of yet unidentified creature seemed to have paused in its progress as if it were perhaps deciding to return to the nearest bank but suddenly it redoubled its efforts to cross the lake in spite of my presence. The chase was on! I can be a strong paddler if I am so inclined and I poured it on. At first I thought the animal was an immature bull moose but as I got closer and closer it became clear it was none other than the parks namesake, a Woodland Caribou! I pulled up alongside and couldn't believe how fast it was swimming in the water, just amazing! I followed the beast to shore hopeful of getting a picture as it emerged but the sun was going to be directly in my eyes and the bank in shadows. Besides, sometimes we get so caught up in taking pictures that we miss seeing life as it unfolds before us so I chose to watch the animal as it emerged from the water. I was not prepared for just how big they are. The Caribou reminded me of a Moose, all huge and long legged.
Despite the poor fishing I kept marveling about the whole experience. My wife Lori had prayed before I set off that I would be safe from harm from any wild animals but I would get to see them. Well my Darling, I believe your prayers are being answered! Thank you Lord!
Back at camp with no fish to cook, rats! Another box of cheesy Hash browns filled me up nicely and then a little nap. Now I'm drinking a cup of Creme Brûlée flavored coffee courtesy of Barnies. The first cup I tried I hated. "Dang stuff almost tastes like alcohol" I remarked to no one in particular and it was then I realized that Creme Brûlée is alcohol......and here I thought it was a dessert? What do I know? But the stuff is slowly gaining acceptance with my constitution regardless. Anyways, it is evening time and I'm hoping the wind will lay and I can go in search of some Lakers. Fare thee well!
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Trolled towards the main lake and it was here where I started marking large schools of baitfish but all that bit were small pike. I even caught one small pike in 38ft of water. Back in camp at 9:30 P.M. and was greeted by a friendly and attractive Snowshoe rabbit. Right at dark I heard some bawling across my little bay, lots of critters around. Perfectly calm tonight. I hope to get an early start in the morning to get on the Lake trout. I have very limited options to catch them and lost option #1 to a snag tonight while out trolling, bum deal.
8/17 Day 13
My new friend, Mr Snowshoe rabbit, woke me twice in the night by thumping around on those big padded feet and pulling on tree limbs with its forepaws. The trip is winding down and I seem to have a perpetual grin on my face and I keep chuckling for no apparent reason. This has really been a fantastic trip and much needed I might add.
This morning starts out with a little breeze. Hopefully it will not impede my ability to cruise offshore for a try at the Big Lake Trout which presumably reside here. My Railriders fleece pullover coupled with a Monte Blanc down coat have made the cool morning here quite comfortable. I still feel like I am in my down sleeping bag all nice and toasty. Probably the only thing which would of made a significant contribution to my comfort level would of been a chair with a backrest. I know Camptime makes a folding chair with a backrest......."Hello, North Pole, is Santa there?"
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How very odd to have a world class fishing experience which doesn't include many fish. Agean Lake is very beautiful and what a day to enjoy it. I fished very hard for about 11 hours and plucked one mid sized laker from the water. Shore lunch was another small pike. What made my shore lunch so special was that it was on an island campsite far above the face of the water on a cliff where the water below plunges some 75' straight down. The views and the mature open woodlands provided a relaxing afternoon respite from the wind and waves and continuos paddling. I even went so far as to take an afternoon nap.
Later that afternoon I thought for sure I had the fish of a lifetime when I decided to run a 10" Grandma lure in the Cisco pattern. I was over 65' of water when the rod doubled up and the drag peeled out. I felt up on the fish and it felt very heavy indeed so I eased the boat into the shore without putting much pressure on the fish. Slowly and with great expectation I gently eased the monster in expecting a huge run at any time. "OH NO!", another 26" pike that was foul hooked in the mid section. I could only shake my head and laugh out loud. I sure thought that was the one! I would like to try it here with gear more suitable to trout fishing. I'm giving it the college try with 80lb braid and 130lb floro carbon leaders, not exactly lake trout stuff. The one trout I did catch hit a big Doctor spoon in 40ft of water rather close to the bank. Very darkly colored fish and quite fat.
I got back to camp about 8 P.M. and sent my "I'm OK" SPOT signal to let my wife know I am fine. Then I had my hot chocolate and commenced putting the fishing stuff away for tomorrows push towards home. I am shooting for Upper Killbourne and hoping to arrive there in the late afternoon to be able to sample some of the fishing. Today I seen 2 tandems with 4 lady paddlers. We exchanged brief plesantries. I should of asked if Kim from Maine was amongst the group as I know she has paddled the park before as well as Everglades National Park in florida. I would like to meet her some day, a very experienced and knowledgable lady.
8/18 Day 14
Rained hard overnight. Tent leaked slightly where I had squished some annoying flies against the rain fly (no pun intended), lesson learned. This morning is calm, very overcast and a wee bit drizzly, perfect! I will take my time on the portages since the rock will be wet and even though I feel stronger and my packs are lighter I still intend to triple portage my way out. Tripling has been a winning combination on this trip so why change? Every morning I blow out quite a bit of clear mucus from my nose. I'm not allergic to anything up here so I think it is just gunk leaving my body. Hurrah, goodbye gunk!I can't say as much for the other end however. I have never been loose on a canoe trip especially eating oatmeal every morning. So that has me questioning the new addition of powdered Nido milk. We may have to part company. No wonder those Mexican babies in my neighborhood are always crying (Nido is found in the Spanish section of most grocery stores). Well, time to get with it, late start and will be 9:30 before I get rolling.
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Today was my favorite paddling day. Still, cloudy and often a bit drizzly made for a surreal atmosphere. I tried to paddle very quietly as I continually scanned the shoreline for game. Today was also the most challenging from a navigation standpoint as well. For the first time my thwart mounted compass was more than a hood ornament and I used it judiciously throughout the day. The route from Agean to Upper Killbourne was not much used. The portage trails were in OK shape with the exception of one 150 meter trail which had a substantial amount of blowdown. The entire area looked like there had been a bomb blast with trees lying every which way. I was loathe to retrace my steps so out came my silky saw and I spent a good 45 minutes clearing a pathway which I felt was safe to use. My bigger concern was if the rest of the route was going to be like this as I had quite a ways to go yet. The on and off again drizzle continued throughout the day but was never very heavy. The original bug shirt was the perfect garment to wear instead of an actual rain top. I did live in rain pants however and they provided some comfort and effectiveness against the wet forest.
Good thing I stayed on target and was able to find some tricky portages rather quickly as the day was vanishing and I still needed to find a campsite. Not to long before getting to Upper Killbourne I looked at the park map to establish just exactly where I was. I folded it back up and stuck it in my pocket and then looked up to a very peculiar sight. I always give brown or black objects a hard look but here was a large black and brown blob with what appeared to be 3 faces looking directly at me. The faces seemed completely out of context to the size of the body but I kept looking intently and sure enough it was a large cow moose and 2 calves. I paddled towards them and they sauntered up an exposed and open hillside where I got to watch them. Very cool!
I hit Upper Killbourne at about 7:30 and it seemed daylight was fading fast. The rain had intensified and there was now a little chop on the water. Mentally I felt sharp as could be and felt I could go on forever but I knew I need to find a site and fast. I looked for at least an hour but nothing presented itself, I was running out of time. Finally it had dawned on me to look at the park services campsite map. I had mocked it previously and imagined a park service employee get together eating chicken wings, drinking strong Canadian beer and throwing darts at a map of the park and marking where the darts landed as campsites. Nevertheless desperate times calls for desperate measures and out it came. The map showed only 1 site on my side of the lake and 3 on the other side so over I went and in 5 minutes I found a good place to call home for the night. I got set up just in time to enjoy a fire, a hot chocolate and the view from my tent site high above the lake which was very pretty.
8/19 Day 15
EGADS! My SPOT is gone, as in lost! It is absent from its holder, bum deal. Now I am glad I had purchased the repair/ replace in case of loss/ insurance. Of course my larger concern is now I will be unable to send an "I'm OK" message to my spouse. I had been faithful sending a few messages each day and now all that will be heard is crickets. She will probably be worrying her pretty little head off. A bit of a quandary to be sure. I could try and get out tomorrow and call but that puts me on the road to Dryden after dark which in moose country is a no-go for me. I am glad that I didn't tell her about the tracking feature that I added to the unit for this trip. All she would see is the device not moving, not moving for a long time.....not good! Oh well, everything will work out, just need to be smart.
This morning is fabulous. I am sitting on a high granite spine of sorts looking out over Upper Killbourne. The cloud ceiling is low, the Loons echo back and forth. I had thought to do the 1000 meter portage out but instead I have decided to go through Middle Killbourne and onto Killbourne lake proper and troll my way back to my entry point of Leano Lake. As I'm deciding all this over my morning coffee I have been observing the Loons. They have "rafted" up in a group of 7 or 8 and are putting on quite a show. Propelling themselves up out of the water and throwing out their chests all while making their unique calls. Impressive display that I had not observed before. I might expect such behavior closer to migration time but then again fall is never really far away in this country. It is only mid August and I have seen some of the smaller trees already changing colors.
I enjoyed Upper Killbourne as well as Middle Killbourne and would like to spend a bit more time on these lakes someday. As I arrived at the portage from Middle Killbourne to Killbourne lake I heard a noise in the timber and as I looked a small bear crossed a moose trail at the waters edge just a stones throw from my portage and unfortunately he was heading towards the trail I had to cross and not away from it. How ironic, I had been on the constant search to see a bear the entire trip and I finally get to see one but the last place I wanted that to happen was at a portage! I waited about 30 seconds and decided I had better not let him think I was afraid so I announced my presence and my intentions. I made my way across with my eyes and ears on the alert and my Bear Spray in my hand ready to use. The bear had melted away however and I never seen nor heard it again. My experience trolling on Killbourne was that the fish were very concentrated and related to structure in a very specific way. I like the lake and would like to try it again some day. I caught one nice pike which I fried up and met one motor boat whose occupants I talked with at length. While eating my shore lunch I couldn't help but notice an island that they had come considerable distance to fish (they were camped on huge Sydney Lake).
Onward I went and just before the creek that was to lead me to Leano lake there was considerable deep water so out went a spoon in hopes of making a Laker connection. Sure enough over 70ft of water the rod bent deeply and once again I thought I was into a good sized lake Trout but only to pull in a 26" Northern Pike. How very odd. The run up the creek to Leano was very enjoyable and the 3 portages accomplished by late afternoon. I had intended to camp on Leano and depart in the morning but I decided to finish up and drive into Red Lake call the Missus and get a room. Thus concluded my paddling trip in Woodland Caribou Provincial Park.
8/20
*The new Super 8 motel in Red Lake was a beautiful hotel but outrageously expensive. Still glad to have stayed there however.
*In the morning I visited with Harlan and found his operation (Red Lake Outfitters) to be first class. I wish him the best of luck.
*Next on the agenda was to visit the park office and talk with Claire if she was there and relate the particulars of my trip. Very fine and pleasant woman. We had a nice conversation and she directed me to an interesting place to have breakfast.
*Interesting place indeed! I sat down and was promptly joined by two older gents who were by all accounts rather pleasant and unexpected company. One gent in particular was quite the conversationalist and had been all over as a member of the Gideons and also had run a trapline in that part of the country for many years with his wife.
*And last but certainly not least I checked in at the police station in Red Lake to inquire about the S&R (Search & Rescue) fellows who had plucked me off that sandbar via helicopter a few years previous. I was impressed with their professionalism and wanted to thank them once again. Only 1 of the servicemen were there (the other on night shift) and I was again profusely thankful. He remembered me and asked how the knee was doing. It was a good visit.
Thanksgiving
*I would like to thank the members of Quiet Journey.com an on-line paddling community for without their input It is unlikely that I would of ever even known of this paddling opportunity.
*Another on line community, Muskie Hunter.com is due many kudos for pushing my thinking in the right direction in regards to tangling with this elusive and fine fish.
* I would also like to thank the other paddlers that I met while in the park, particularly Rob from Denver who pointed me to such a wonderful campsite.
*Naturally my wife who is very gracious and not only tolerates my expenditures and time away but is a supporter of my time spent in the outdoors.
*And of course the Lord of Lords and King of Kings who is always faithful and has my best interests at heart is due a bowed knee and a humble heart filled with gratitude.
