Isle Royale "Go and get healthy"

Day 1 / Aug 9th

     The ride over on the ferry was smooth, cloudy and cool. I checked in after listening to the mandatory backcountry orientation, paid my camping fees and managed to snag a shelter. I did a 4.5 mile hike in the afternoon and am glad I brought a day pack, hiking boots and trekking poles. Later that evening a seemingly tame bull moose allowed very close scrutiny and I got some good pics.

Day 2 / Aug 10th

     Somehow I got confused about the departure time of the Voyager 2 which was my means of transportation around the island. By the time I rallied and got out of my sleeping bag I thought I had only an 1/2 hour to get my gear to the dock. Desperation became my villainous partner and I started tossing loose items into any duffel bag and scampered down the trail towards the dock and my ride to Chippewa Harbor. Only one problem, about a dozen people had blocked the trail. Apparently yesterday evenings bull moose had decided to bed down about 10ft off the path. A few in the crowd had motioned for me to be quiet and approach slowly but I shook my head and blew through the crowd. The bull was bedded down in the tall grass with head gear and shoulders plainly visible. I quickly realized that this would be the closest I would ever get to a moose. I never paused but rather accelerated my pace and the bull reacted by jumping to its feet as I whisked by. I probably did the gawkers a favor as now Mr Moose was standing for all to see. He ambled about amongst the myriad of clicks and flashes, much to the delight of the onlookers.

     I managed to get all my gear dockside but there was no sign of Captain or crew. Come to find out they operate on Central time which put me an hour early. Oh well, it was just enough time to grab some breakfast at the lodge and partake of the last coffee I would have for quite some time. Little did I perceive it was a divine appointment. Upon entering the modest Rock Harbor Lodge I quickly grabbed a seat at the counter since most of the tables were full. A "twenty something" young lady soon occupied the seat next to me. We have some conversation with me doing most of the conversing and she being polite. I make mention, as I gulp a big cup of joe, that I was going cold turkey off coffee on the trail. Soon thereafter her guy shows up and they grab a table. I think nothing of it until the Lord tells me to pick up their tab. On my way out I stop at their table and inquire of their plans for the day. We say our pleasantries and as I'm walking out she says "good luck with the coffee."  I stop, look at her and reply, " yup, it might be hard but I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me." They instantly look at each other and probably think I was a zealot of some sort. But, about a 1/2 hour later, the guy comes up out of nowhere and shakes my hand, smiles big, and says thanks. Nice folks, I hope they had a good time.

     The Voyager 2 made good time to Chippewa Harbor amongst a cool, rainy and breezy backdrop. As I passed the forebidding rocky shoreline I was supremely glad to have relied exclusively on using the water taxi to get around. That way everything could be done on my terms instead of leaving it up to the treacherously unpredictable cold waters of Lake Superior. Even now I am safely ensconced in a shelter, out of the rain and I was able to spend some quality time on the yoga mat working on regaining some much needed mobility. I will probably skip the hiking today and fish in the protected waters of the harbor. I fished from 4p.m. until almost dark with only 1 small pike to show for my efforts.

Day 3 / Aug 11th

     The day dawns partly cloudy and cool. I would like to ease out to the outside and fish for lakers but I can still hear the breakers crashing against the rocks. I am leaning towards running small lures for Coaster Brook Trout. I have very little knowledge about them other than they are shallow early in the year and often run up rivers in the fall to spawn. Other than that I am on my own.

     I added Steel ground oats to my usual old fashioned and am surprised at the additional volume of food created. The consistency is a bit more paste like but the trade off is more sustenance. The only thing missing is my dearly beloved coffee. I have decided to give it up due to the high acid content. In its place I have Chamomile tea which is more agreeable than I remember.

     In my confidence of what the Lord had told me, "Go and get healthy," I spent a good hour on the yoga mat doing various stretches and then decided a hike was in order. I did about 4.5 mikes and the uneven surfaces proved to be just what the doctor ordered. Only the week before I could barely walk 6 city blocks before feeling discomfort in my left leg. When I got back to camp however I could tell my hip and knee were starting to protest the days excursion. What to do? Aha! Go soak in an ice bath! I spent about 20 minutes in Lake Superior which proved to be tremendously beneficial in calming my body down.

     In the afternoon I took the boat out and fared much better fishing with several pike landed including one 38" fish which smacked a big swimbait. Of considerable interest however was how many follows I had In the super clear water. I watched several pike shadow my bait including one super tanker clearly over 40". A fun and satisfying afternoon.

     Upon my return I met an interesting guy named Bill who had his sailboat tied up at the dock. His father had built the vessel and it was extrodinary. Bill was a wealth of information and we chatted for a good hour. He was a humorous sort, having the wit that age and experience bring and I found the interaction quite stimulating. He insisted on giving me one of his "secret" lake trout lures as well as some of his favorite fish fry coating. I regret not taking his picture alongside his boat.

Bills Secret Lure

Day 4 / Aug 12th

     I rolled out of bed sometime just after dawn and was greeted with a rather rude realization. I had not turned the valve tightly enough on a large tank of ISO fuel and it was empty (no wonder I slept so well). I have 2 large canisters left and if I don't have to many fish frys I will probably be alright. Today is day two without coffee and I am a bit surprised that the usual day long withdrawal headache was noticeably absent. I am hopeful about getting to the outside today as weather conditions seem quite calm. Bill has educated me where to find the lakers and along with the secret lure I can almost taste them now!

     Before I ventured out I asked some other campers I had met yesterday if they wanted any fish if I should meet with success. Their reply was very enthusiastic and with their encouragement I was off. I ran Bills secret lure off one side and some lead core line and a spoon off the other side. I caught 3 lake trout in short order on the spoon and when I got tired of dragging them on the stringer I paddled in to give them to my neighbors who were all smiles.

     I did some more work on the mat and then had some lunch. I went back out to try my hand at jigging but the wind had picked up substantially. I dropped the jig for an hour with no takers and then it was back to the inside of the harbor where I picked up 2 pike in the mid thirties. Not bad fish but not the ones I'm after.

Day 5 / Aug 13th

      So far no ill effects from going cold turkey off of coffee but pain in my legs woke me last night. I am thinking my hip abductors got short and tight from sitting in the boat for so many hours. Overall, however, my progress has been good. The hiking, stretching and the uneven surfaces one trods upon in wild places has yielded improved mobility and flexibility. I am optimistic that this trip will launch me in the right direction and I will regain full range of motion once again. I have given this goal as my #1 priority while I am here. Today is move out day and the Voyager 2 will once again pick me and my mountain of gear up and whisk it to Malone Bay, my next scheduled stop. Time to pack up!

Malone Bay Shelter

      Upon arriving at Malone Bay I was feeling a bit discouraged. Pain in my hip, knee and ankle was certainly getting my attention. The 1/4 mile portage from the dock to the shelters all but wiped me out and I was quick to lay down. After my pity party I realized that my plans of portaging into Siskiwit lake was all but a fantasy and now I found myself on the shores of Lake Superior, in one spot, for an entire week. I strongly suspected that I would change my next scheduled pick up date and leave early. I got the yoga mat out and began my therapy. Unpleasant and painful are the best words to describe it. Progress is there but at a snails pace. Sitting in the boat all day yesterday seems to have set me back. But gradually, and by degrees as it were, I envisioned doing 6 days of intense long workouts and perhaps achieve a breakthrough of sorts. To that end, and after going through all the usual moves, I decided to employ a band I had gotten through "Rougue Fitness" after reading about the concept in a book ( How to become a Supple Leopard ). The idea is to take what is basically a giant rubber band, secure one end to a fixed position and tighten the other end around a body part. The terminology is called "Distracted Banding". I was a wee bit nervous as the band exerts considerable pressure but I placed it on my upper thigh so the band was pulling my hip outwards while I did a few simple moves. The results were dramatic and immediate! Thank you Lord! I may be onto something here! I will continue with the plan of several long and intensive training sessions and maybe I can finish out the last 1/2 of the trip having accomplished my goal of "Go and get Healthy". Certainly I have an ideal situation here with a protected wooden floor, cool breezes coming in off Lake Superior and cheerful views of the water. Let's get to work!

 Day 6 / Aug 14th

      A gloomy still morning and I should be out fishing. I had a rough night last night with my knee which was probably protesting the previous days exertions on the mat. Whatever is going on with me is not staying and must depart for it is under the curse and I am under grace. Healing is the children's bread for is it not written "that through His stripes I am healed"? I will do my best through the wisdom God gives to cooperate but having done all things I will stand and have faith in Gods Word that what He said is true and my health will be restored as in the days of my youth. I did an hour on the mat and am walking much better. The impingement I had in my hip seems to be largely corrected.

     The lake was flat calm and my boat was calling softly so off I went. My focus was once again Coaster Brook trout and I set about trolling in 15ft of water. I was soon rewarded with another Lake trout which, along with some hash browns, made for an excellent lunch. Another hour on the mat and then a brief snooze before taking the boat out again. I was quickly into another lake trout, this one going about 4lbs. Today was filled with moose sightings. One on the shore early in the day but in the late afternoon an oddity of sorts happened. A bull moose plunges into the water off the small island I am fishing in front of and starts swimming towards the big island. At almost the same exact time a cow and calf dive in from the opposite side of the small island and also make for Isle Royale proper. I found the timing rather curious.

      I settled in for the evening with my Nook and am 1/2 way through "Rough Riders," a true story about Teddy Roosevelt and his motley assortment of brave men who helped liberate Cuba from Spain. A very engaging read.

 Day 7 / Aug 15th

      Sunny and calm to start the day and once again the boat is calling. But I must focus on the "prime objective" and to that end I will put in my mat work and then go hiking. Maybe I can still get on the water in the afternoon. I did a solid 8 miles today and am generally pleased. I am glad to have worn long pants as the trail was much underused and grown over in many spots with prickly Thimbleberry bushes. The ripe red fruit greatly slowed my progress but were quite tasty. The trail wound its way along the shores of Siskiwit lake and crossed the entrance of the Siskiwit river which was my predetermined stopping point. As I walked the small wooden bridge I looked out upon the lake, and, framed perfectly, was a moose!

      Despite only having a daypack I was dragging a bit by the time I got back. I was quick to stand in the cold Superior waters for a much needed cool down and clean up. Then I did more work on the mat stretching and taking care of the wheels via banding. That night I finished up "Rough Riders" and enjoyed it immensely. The big lake stayed calm all day and I missed a golden paddling opportunity. Hopefully tomorrow will be a repeat and I will snag some fish for lunch.

 Day 8 / Aug 16th

      When I retrieved my homemade calendar to mark off today I couldn't help but laugh. It's day 8 of a 26 day trip and it seems like I have been on the island a long time already! I am glad the hiking portion of the trip is the first 1/2 and the serious fishing is the second 1/2. I am looking forward to spending some 12 days at McCargo Cove, Duncan Bay and the 5 Finger Region.

      Agony! I took the boat out for a spin and hooked a beautiful big Laker and she spun out of my fancy expensive net leaving the lure in the meshes as she darted off into the depths. Definitely a picture taker. Soon thereafter the lake started getting bumpy so I peeled off but the nice fish are out there that's for sure and not terribly far from camp.

 Day 9 / Aug 17th

      Yesterday with the down time I think I figured out why I have no juice to my depth finder. The portable lithium ion battery came with a cigarette type plug in adapter especially made for the unit. The male end had a red power light which had failed to show. I decided to disassemble it to make sure the wiring was secure but lo and behold it houses a fuse which of course was blown. Perhaps I will be able to bum a fuse off one of the boaters at the various docks.

      The fog had rolled in yesterday evening and this morning is overcast and raining. It looks like I might just hole up until things break. The use of these 3 sided wooden shelters really adds a lot of comfort to this type of trip. It's been a long day. I have done a few mat sessions but the cool gloomy wet weather has zapped my ambition. I had to walk to Siskiwit lake just to get water as Superior was very rough. I spent a good portion of the day reading Dickens "A tale of two cities" which I haven't read in 30 years. It brought tears to my eyes then and will probably do so again.

      Meeting lots of people on this trip. I met Fred and Dara Heidelman of Holland Michigan. They have a canoe as well but were primarily interested in the interior lakes. Fred plied me with questions concerning fishing as he was hoping to catch at least 1 fish so he could get a picture. Later in the day I felt compelled to give him some lures so I visited their campsite. We talked tackle and tactics and just out of curiosity I asked to see his outfit. A slight tug on the lure he had been using resulted in a quick "pop" as the line gave way. We spent some time learning how to tie knots with the braid he was using. I think his chances are good especially since they were going to Lake Ritchie where 25" pike all but jump in the boat. They gave me their info and suggested if I were ever in Holland to stop by and he would make some Goose stew. The note suggests I give 3 days notice......maybe he needs the extra allotment of time to choose a discreet opportunity to go down to the local pond in front of the city library to obtain said Canadian goose?

      The Big Lake is most fascinating this morning. The big winds of yesterday had piled up the waters on my side and now they are flowing back. If I didn't know better I would think I was looking at a tidal flow as it's moving right along. The wind has shifted 180 degrees from yesterday and now my waters of interest are largely in the lee. I will let it flatten out just a bit more before I ply the cold depths. The Mega Bass Deep Six lure which was so deadly on walleye last year is proving its worth on lakers as well having taken both larger fish.

      The big lake was starting to calm but I knew I needed to get in another hike so off I went. I did the same 8 miles as the other day but it certainly felt like I had done more. Then a soak in the lake, a quick snooze, some rice and beans, a bit more stretching and then finally I get the boat out in the afternoon. But a rude surprise awaited me. I had not drug the boat high enough off the beach during yesterday's big blow and a nice thick layer of sand had deposited itself along 1/2 of the inside of the boat. It was a big mess and quite a chore to get out. Lesson learned, either spend an hour cleaning your boat or drag it another 10ft.

      Malone Bay is not especially deep, only about 50ft. I had previously thought the bigger lakers would be offshore but one cannot always go by what one hears from others. My Deep Six lure had stopped vibrating so I cranked it in to see what was going on. Lo and behold a long but not heavy bodied laker but still going at least 10lbs shows up and gives a cursory interest in my bait. Unfortunately it had some weeds on it and the big fish eased off back into the depths. It's very exciting to look into crystal clear waters and see big fish. I had nary a strike the entire evening however. Perhaps I am fishing to deep? Malone Bay, certainly a place to take a bit more seriously. If I were in better physical shape Siskiwit lake is worthy of its own trip, so my stay here has been beneficial from a scouting perspective as well.

 Day 11 / Aug 19th

      Long night! My legs bothered me until daylight and I could find little relief. Stretching at 1 a.m. helped but both knees were having a hard time. The last time I did the 8 mile hike I had a similar night but I thought perhaps this time would be different. The good news is that when I am up moving around I do much better. It is little wonder, looking back, that the Lord put it into my mind to come here instead of my previously planned venture to Woodland Caribou Provincial Park which would of been much more difficult. Besides, it is a joy to paddle the big boat and on bigger waters where it excels. I reject that my knees will get progressively worse. I will seek wisdom from on high as to what I should be doing. Having an alkaline based diet instead of an acid based diet is a first step. That means abandoning my two major food groups, bread and coffee! I have also read where fasting can do wonders breaking up the crystallization of synovial fluids. Not sure I can do a week but maybe a day once per week. That would be a big step for me especially since I like food.

     Up early, lake looks to be mostly calm so hopefully I can secure some lunch. Then it will be time to organize my stuff for tomorrow's 11a.m. pick up for my next stop of Windigo. But first things first and I caught 2 lakers on the Deep Six and kept the smallest one for lunch. I used Bills fish fry breading and all came out very tasty. I did a session on the mat and then went back out to try my hand at jigging for Lakers. I had nary a strike in the afternoon jigging or trolling. I eventually made my way back to camp and when I glanced at the state of the waters I was a bit taken aback. The conditions were rather rougher than I had thought but the big boat handled it just fine. I have yet to fully explore the vessels true capabilities but all I know is that Lake Superior is not the waters to do so. It took almost 3 hours to put my gear in order and have my ducks in a row for tomorrow's Voyager pick up to Windigo.

 Day 12 / Aug 20th

      The island doesn't look that big on the map but a solid two hours of running via the diesel powered Voyager 2 put us at Windigo. There were several sport fishing boats tied up at the dock so I assumed the fishing was good. At first I despaired of my situation as the campsites were at least 1/4 mile away from the dock with very poor water access. In other words I would be unable to paddle my onerous mountain of gear to my campsite. It was going to make for a long day just getting situated. But by some very good fortune along comes Steve Martin the ranger and I joke with him about having trolley service to take my gear to my site. He quickly directs my attention to a large wheeled cart which not only cut my trips in 1/2 but rendered them almost effortless. Hurrah! I have 2 more full days to enjoy this area and then it's off to McCargo Cove.

 Day 13 / Aug 21st

      The trip is 1/2 over and so far has been very enjoyable and satisfying. Yesterday, while moving my gear, my legs felt back to their normal strong self without the hip impingement or feeling of weakness in my knee. The mat work and hiking has cut into my time on the water but fishing is a secondary consideration. If I can come off this trip with improved mobility and strength it will serve as a launching platform for a healthier lifestyle. Otherwise I could be looking at hip and knee replacements and I respond by confessing "God forbid"! Show me what I must do Lord!

      The little solar powered Lucie light is a real cheer in the shelters in the evening and does a good job of illumination. I have finished "A Tale of two cities" last night and of course shed a tear at the end. I am grateful that it came free with the Nook or I would be running out of reading material. Another free book, "The secret garden" awaits. Not something I would of chosen but I will read it anyways.

      I was up early, rather cool out as I can see my breath but it looks to be a sunny day to start. Windigo offers good paddling with a long meandering harbor of at least a mile maybe two. I think I will run the shoreline for Coasters and then troll deep for lake trout.

      Tough fishing day! Out in front of the docks, at the very end of the harbor and in front of Washington creek, is a tremendous weed bed with deep weeds and looks to be monster pike heaven. I cast about with a smallish lure, a Shadow Rap, and connect with what I am sure is a trout. It's a good one too but my drag is a little tight and the hooks pull when it gives one good last run near the boat. Coaster or Rainbow? I would of dearly loved to have seen it. I make a mental note to self about the weed bed and commence to troll out to the mouth of the harbor. At first I run small lures near shore and pick up a few small rainbows. Then I run the Deep Six all the way out. On the paddle back I put out the lead core and a spoon but all to no avail, not even a strike!

      Back at camp I snooze for an hour and then visit the Windigo store where I pick up a travel pillow and some rag wool gloves. Then it was back in the boat to chunk a Shadzilla in the deep weeds near the dock. I just knew a 45" pike was going to crush the big swimbait but I spent close to 3 hours without a bite!

Day 14 / Aug 22nd

      Last night I slightly deflated my usual blow up camping pillow and placed it between my knees and along with the new travel pillow and rag wool gloves I had my best nights sleep yet. No burning sensations, no shooting pains and no achy knees......thank you Lord! As I am writing this a bull moose is placidly feeding in the creek just outside my shelter. Only at Isle Royale!

     Today I am planning to do the Hunnigan Cove loop. It is the only trail on the island which boasts of having about 1/2 mile of trail along the rugged cliff infested north shore. It is a bit ambitious for me in my current physical condition at 9.4 miles and is unlikely to be mostly flat as the other 8 mile hikes I have walked. I was punished rather severely after those shorter easier hikes through long and painful nights. But I will trust in the Lord and believe the net effect will be my restoration. Time to eat my oats, put my shelter in order and be off.

North Shore

      An overall outstanding hike and the best I have done thus far. The stretch along the north shore was certainly the highlight and I was grinning the entire time. The big lake was rockin and rollin and the waves and noisy surf added immensely to the experience. The rest of the hike was uneventful save for one hilarious but profound encounter. To relate it accurately I must set a bit of a back story. 

 John

     When I first arrived at Windigo via the Voyager 2 my first concern was getting a shelter. So after my gear and boat were offloaded I was quick to grab a few bags and make hasty tracks to stake my claim. At the end of the dock, seemingly awaiting me, was a guy with a pack on. I asked how he was doing and he said "not bad for an old short fat guy". He asked if I were going for a shelter and I answered in the affirmative as I blew past him. "So am I" he answered and fell in line. I was a man on a mission and my newly acquired acquaintance seemed intent on chit-chat and asked me a myriad of questions. Although I was not in the frame of mind to converse much I felt checked in my spirit to be friendly and patient. I found out his name was John and I kept running into him at various times and places which were unanticipated. Each time we met we would converse a bit longer and I quickly grew to like the man. But what does that have to do with today's hike you might ask? Well 3/4 of the way through my loop who do I run into? None other than John! I came upon him unawares as he was picking Thimbleberries. In as deep of a voice as I could muster I said "J-O-H-N"........ sort of long and drawn out. The poor fellow just about jumped out of his skin! Then he looks upwards, as I was on a hill, and all he sees is this figure with the sun directly behind me. It was if an Angelic Being, clothed in light, was speaking from above. Of course I only came to understand these perceptions after he related them to me and we shared a good laugh. After some small talk I ventured to ask John if he knew the Lord and he responded by saying he better as he was a Methodist pastor! Then he went on to say that the Lord had told him that he was going to meet someone on the trail and that he was to pray for them. John believed that I was that person and his prayer for me was very uplifting and felt Spirit led. I felt hugely encouraged and left our meeting with a lightness of step.

      I'm now back at my shelter where 2 moose are wading about in Washington creek. Time to get my gear in order and get ready to be transported to McCargo Cove. Having experienced much of what the island has to offer I can safely say I am very much looking forward to the 2nd half of the trip. The Five Finger area is a paddlers dream. Hopefully the fish will cooperate!

 Day 15 / Aug 23rd

      I did a good 45 minutes work on the mat last night before bed taking care of my legs. I really didn't want a repeat of the last long hike in which I was tossing and turning all night. Success! I slept rather well and am believing I am achieving some break throughs of sorts. The stretching sessions are becoming less painful and I am able to push a little further as time goes on.

      I was up early and made my two trips via the handcart and deposited my gear and vessel at the dock. Then I used the showers and grabbed a chicken sandwich and a V-8 at the Windigo store. I could see the Voyager 2 coming as I left the store and began walking toward the dock, perfect timing!

     The ride to McCargo took 3 hours and was a bit bumpy. I positioned myself to gain a view of the Birch Island campsite and its single shelter at the mouth of the fiord like harbor. I was eager to claim that prize but it was already occupied. Another mile inside put us at the McCargo Cove dock. I must admit I was feeling slightly dismayed. The shelters have been a delight to me and much preferred than setting up tent and tarp. I had been through this area once before and hadn't noticed any shelters but lo and behold, hidden on the hillside, were several of the wondrous 3 sided marvels. I quickly sought one which was unoccupied and set up shop, my spirits having lifted considerably. The beautiful day only reenforced my positive mood.

      I fished off the dock in the evening, the same dock where some 10 years ago my friends son hooked a pike "as big as me", arms extended wide for emphasis. But all I caught was 2 middlin sized northerns. I settled in for a surprisingly cold night.

 Day 16 / Aug 24 I

     I was up very early and eager to get fishing. I commenced to troll my way up to the mouth of McCargo Cove and noticed the campers which had been in the lone shelter at Birch island were now gone. It is arguably one the finest sites on Isle Royale and I was quick to deposit some gear inside as well as leave a few fishing rods outside. I paddled the mile or so back to break camp and brought the rest of my gear to the small private site. Birch island is situated such that just a few minutes paddle puts one into Lake Superior proper or just as attractive is nearby Brady Cove and its long established reputation of producing pike over 40". Time to establish myself, rest a bit and then see if the big lake is calm enough to do a little trolling.

Trolling "The Wall" north shore

      It had calmed right down in the afternoon and I ventured out on the north shore of Isle Royale and quickly trolled up 2 lake trout. I kept one for the mornings breakfast. It's definitely another world along the north shore. A few hours before sundown found me in Brady Cove. Of particular interest to me was a large patch of deep reeds. I intended to fish up inside the reeds and for that job I chose a large segmented plastic weedless lure called a Sebille Magic Swimmer. I got two strikes. The first I missed clean but the second was a good solid strike just as the lure cleared the reeds. The big fish powered hard in front of the boat and then was off. How I failed to stick her with a good hard jerk, a stiff rod and 65lb braid is a mystery to me. Weedless lures can be great tools but sometimes the hooking ability leaves a little something to be desired. I will eat my laker in the morning and then put in a big day back in Brady Cove and hopefully put a pike over 40" on the board.

 Day 17 / Aug 25th

      Brrrrr! Nights are getting long and very cold. More so, I would assume, in an open environment like a shelter. I am wearing light socks, down booties, silk underwear, Under Armour heat max underwear, a light down coat, a Mountain Hardware cap and rag wool gloves all stuffed into a 15 degree down sleeping bag. The fish kept just fine of course and provided a big breakfast. Today might be laundry day if the weather stays sunny. This open flat site is ideal for stringing a clothesline.

Birch Island

      But first things first. It was time to pound the waters to a froth with big swimbaits which is something that these highly educated fish probably have never seen before. It was still early in the morning and the bay was like glass with the mist having a bit of a surreal mysterious effect. The water was crystal clear and only about 6 ft deep. I seen some 6 or 8 pike with two of them pushing the 40" mark. The big swimbaits were a poor choice however as they landed with a resounding crash and were oft entangled in the tall weeds. I made the quick 5 minute paddle back to camp and figured this was an ideal situation for the Suicide duck, a top water water duckling imitator. It also turned out to be a wrong choice as I had only one follow and no strikes. Back to camp! This time I tied on an 8" black Kalin Octo grub, stuck it on a big jig head and presto! Finally, something they would eat! I caught 3 or 4 with one going a fat 34" but they did not make the grade for being worthy of a picture. It's noon and the fish have seen my offering numerous times so I leave off and head back to camp.

Entrance to Brady Cove

      About an hour later I have company as a canoe pulls in. They inform me that another canoe is coming and they are a party of four. I can't help but feel a bit chagrined about occupying the only shelter as they will have to use the primitive site. I will likely be out in the morning however if the weather holds and on my way to Duncan Bay. Time to go through my gear and make everything small. No Voyager 2 water taxi this time but 1 mile of outside paddling on Lake Superior, 3 portages and then 10 miles of protected water await me in the morning. I feel good and am looking forward to the work.

 Day 18 / Aug 26th

      Last evening a sport fishing boat pulled up and I asked him about the marine forecast. The weather was supposed to hold the first 1/2 of the day but wind and clouds increasing with rain likely in the afternoon and all day rain on Sunday. Therefore I was up before daylight making oatmeal by headlamp and hit the water at 7 a.m.. I did the 11 miles and three portages by 1 p.m. and I am glad to have worked hard to get here. This site is for paddlers only (no hiking trails) with 2 shelters. Right now I am the sole occupant which suits me just fine. I cleaned up, made some rice and beans and will likely get some rest.

Pickerel Cove

      I got out on the water at about 7 p.m. and the pike are chewing. On the second cast I had a 30" pike. That was quickly followed by 5 more fish. Three in the low thirties, one picture taker which got off and another picture taker which didn't. All were caught on the black Kalins Octo grub coupled with a Hogy Barbarian 1oz jig head. Nice combo! That was a super fun evening and I'm just getting started. I have several days here, woohoo!!

 Day 19 / Aug 27

      The rain started after midnight and this morning is dreary and grey. Should make for an excellent pike fishing day! I can hear the wind in the trees up on the Greenstone Ridge but in the bay winds are light and variable.

     Did I say "light and variable"? Just as I got on the water the wind cranked up big time and with it came sheets of rain. I still fished a solid 3 hours but with precious little in the way of results. I made my way back to camp for another generous helping of rice and beans. I idled the day away between reading and sleeping and sometime around 5 in the afternoon the wind layed just enough to get the boat out. Towards evening a Black Zombie Shadzilla scored on 2 nice pike. One real fattie at 37" and one at 40". I am finally on the board with a 40" pike on this trip. The big brute literally hit right at boat side and what a strike! I was worried about to much pressure being so close and having the hooks pull but she stayed glued. Then she did her thing and I did mine. Thanks for the good time baby!

      I still had about 1/2 hour until dark but I called it a day and went and took care of my legs. For about a week now I have had no pain to speak of and I thank God for that. The physical therapy and just being in wild places is helping me just as the Lord knew it would, "Go and get healthy" is what I heard in my spirit when I asked the Lord if I should go on a trip for almost a month. Now I just need to eat right and put as much focus on my body as I do my work.

 Day 20 / Aug 28th

      Feeling good and feeling strong! Last night my knee woke me with some pain and I took authority over it and commanded that any arthritis in my body cannot stay for I am not under the curse but rather the grace of God abounds In my life. The pain immediately subsided and I slept the best yet on the trip!

     Today is overcast, not especially cold but perfectly calm. A good day to do some exploring. There is a little bay not so far away where I had caught and seen big fish in the past. Also high on my priority list is to try for perch. I had what I believe was a jumbo perch look at my black Kalins grub a few days ago. Now I wished I had some plain old worms and a slip bobber. Some big perch would be a hoot and a real treat in the pan.

      The group of young guys who were with me at Birch island pulled in yesterday during the big blow and rainstorm. One of the guys had a Ham radio and it was a very cool device. I could not get anything on my weather radio but he could get almost anything including being able to transmit within about 5 miles. It's a very good thing to be able to get a weather report especially for Lake Superior. Time to get organized and get on the water. Perhaps a personal best pike is in the cards?

     I caught two 30" pike and kept one and fried it up at Duncan Narrows Campsite. All I ate was fish and I almost finished the entire thing. Next I paddled out into Lake Superior running a Tail Dancer for Lake Trout. I went about a mile out along Blake point without a strike. Then it was back to camp for a snooze.

     At 5p.m. I was casting a big Savage Gear pike Imitation and connected with a long, but not especially heavy bodied northern going 38". I knocked off about an hour before dark which has proven to be prime fishing time but I wanted a cup of tea and to get things in order before dark. Besides, I had neglected my mat work today which is not to my benefit. I will put in a short mat session before crawling into my sleeping bag and turning on my Nook.

 Day 21 / Aug 21st

      Very foggy this morning but last night was clear so it promises to be a nice day. I am hoping the weather holds as I head to Belle Isle tomorrow and spend 3 days there before the Voyager 2 picks me up and carries me around treacherous Blake point back to my starting point of Rock Harbor. Time to finish my oats and tea and see if any big northerns want to play. Popped a real dandy this morning on a Rubin Destroyer colored Shadzilla. A very thick bodied 42" pike which I can say is a personal best for me in the pike department. The sun came out briefly but then it socked right back in. It didn't clear until after 12 so I just kept fishing. I did spend some time trying for perch but no dice.

Same as cover photo

     I spotted another canoe over by the portage so I cruised over to say hello. They were a young couple, Dean and Emily, and we chatted for about 10 minutes. They informed me that they were heading to Belle Isle as I had intended to do in the morning. But then they went on to inform me that the weather was about to change and the morning was to bring wind and rain. They went on their way and I mulled things over for about an hour and then suddenly decided that I had better take advantage of the calm sunny day and get my rear in gear. I closed up shop and was on my way by 3:30 p.m.. I had 2 time consuming portages to cross and several miles of paddling to achieve my goal. I was a man on a mission and I hustled my way there with enough time to grab a shelter, set up and take a look around. Belle isle, simply put, is awesome! During prime time I bet this is one busy place. It's just like the Lord to save the best for last! I had spoken to some volunteer rangers at McCargo Cove who said the Laker fishing was "ridiculously good". Let's hope I can connect. I am at a bit of a disadvantage however as my depth finder has not worked since Malone Bay. But I will give it a good try if the weather permits. This is one trip which just keeps on getting better!

shelter at Belle Isle

 Day 22 / Aug 30th

      The thunderstorm hit sometime after midnight and I repositioned my bedding to watch the light show and then had a hard time getting back to sleep. Wildlife sightings have been fairly numerous and as follows: 1 red fox, 4 eagles, numerous loons and lots of waterfowl, 2 families of otters, 7 or 8 moose and a healthy dose of what appears to be an ordinary cottontail rabbit. Today dawns cool and gloomy and I can already hear the wind in the treetops. It was a very good call to scamper here yesterday. Even so, I would of likely still made it as Belle Isle offers protection from the savagery of the main lake except in winds from the north or east. Today's winds are supposed to shift east which usually makes for poor fishing. A "real" weather radio is a must on this island especially if your on Lake Superior. I had purchased a little plastic device but all I could hear was static. An actual marine radio or Ham radio should be considered as mandatory.

      I have discovered a trail behind my shelter which leads to an amazing lookout and the nicest views thus far. An interesting cement set of stairs have been built to aid in the ascent. That must of been done many years ago before the island became a national park. I considered the steps quite the little feat of engineering and am glad the park service retained them.

      Whoa! Maybe I wouldn't have gotten here yesterday as the waves are ripping through here. Dean and Emily, the young couple I had met at the portage, left early this morning bound for Birch island. I spent a good hour moving stuff from my shelter into their recently vacated one. The views are better and it gets the early morning sun. Later in the day, while at the aforementioned lookout, I spy a small sailboat approaching. They spot me and wave. I scurried down and went to meet them at the dock. They were Dale and Bernadette from near Minneapolis. We chatted for almost 2 hours, nice people, living their dream. The weather, according to Dale, sounds a bit dicey with high winds for the next few days. Maybe it will clock around and put me into the lee so I can get the boat out and sample the waters. The winds have lain significantly and I am putting tomorrows tackle together. After that I went down to the dock and caught a decent lake trout on a small spoon. The Laker will make for a nice breakfast along with some hash browns.

 Day 23 / Aug 31st

      A glorious morning! Air is mostly still and cold with not a cloud in sight. I slept exceedingly well and there is just enough light to make my fish and taters. Then off to explore the waters around Belle Isle, what a fabulous trip!

      Egads! Trolled deep into Robinson bay and then back to camp without a nibble! Then I ate the rest of the fish and hash browns for lunch and then out again. I trolled my way down the Amygoloid channel and through a small slot in the rocky wall called the "keyhole" and back to camp without a single strike. Ouch! Maybe it's this east wind which has the fish in a funk. I will rest a bit, do my mat work and run some spoons in the evening.

 Day 24 / Sept 1st

      I had to get up last night and add another layer of long underwear and my light down coat as it was quite chilly. Yesterday two guys paddling a tandem kayak come paddling near me. We chat for a bit and I ask where they are going. They answer "Belle isle" but they had already passed the beach landing so I tell them to follow me. We talk at the landing and I find out they are from Chicago and do most of their paddling on Lake Michigan. I note that their boat sits low and they have no spray skirt. They are both wearing wet suits and have rounded Blake point under good conditions. Without a spray skirt I think they have no business out here. Perhaps the wet suits help make them feel invincible? Anyway, when I gifted some tea in the early evening i noticed they were already in their sleeping bags propped up against the wall in their shelter. If they were cold already at 7p.m. then last night will likely go down as one of the most uncomfortable nights they have experienced. They related a very serious incident the day before at the Merrit lane campsite. What they think happened is a guy had a stroke and then fell into the cold Superior waters while in camp. His brother found him in the water unable to move his limbs. He was also definitely hypothermic. The tandem pair of kayakers just happened upon the scene at the right time and feverishly paddled back to Rock Harbor to alert the Rangers. Soon thereafter an air reserve helicopter was flown in to evacuate the poor fellow. Who knows what a day may bring?

      This morning is perfectly calm and I am looking forward to paddling. It is hard, however, to get excited about my fishing prospects as I have no depth finder and am blind trolling. I have decided to upgrade my depth finder in the future to a color version which is better at marking individual fish. I certainly have the power pak to run it. Tomorrow is my pick up day for the Voyager 2 and I will be magically transported to Rock Harbor. The big question, and one that has been dominating my thinking, is salad or burger?

      I was out early and had 2 lakers within 15 minutes and decided to paddle the short distance back to camp to clean one for lunch. The two kayakers, Joe and Brian, whom I have nicknamed the Dynamic Duo, were on their way out. They were surprised that I had caught some fish so quickly. I asked them if their boat had a spray cover but they stated their dislike for them. I then asked them what their plan was should a couple of big waves break into their boat because then they were certainly going to be in trouble. They were heading to Blake Point and I suggested if conditions were bad they should make for Duncan Narrows and wait for the morning calm.

     I finished cleaning my fish and am now sitting in my shelter writing when suddenly an otter comes right into my campsite obviously looking for the fish I had just cleaned. I grabbed my camera and went sat near my boat where I had lain the fish remains intending to deposit it into deep water according to park policy. But sure enough, here comes Mr Otter and settles down for a fish dinner with me only about 10ft away. I got plenty of pictures and engaged in a one sided conversation. I was to see the otter several more times while at Belle Isle and I think I may of made a friend.

      As time transpired the wind had picked up considerably and where I had quickly caught fish early in the morning was no longer a comfortable option. I will try some new water and see what happens. I fished the rest of the afternoon without another strike. How I would dearly love to have a quality depth finder as the lakers would likely show and I could drop a jig on them. Maybe next time!

 Day 25 / Sept 2nd

      The weather has certainly not cooperated since my arrival and has hampered my fishing efforts. Last night I noticed a ring around the full moon and that usually means rain within 24 hours. Sure enough I awake to a steady rain which had been continuous for several hours. Today is pick up day via the Voyager 2 and I needed to get my boat and gear down to the dock by 1 p.m. for the ride to Rock Harbor. The weather deteriorated as the day went on but I rallied and had my stuff on the dock awaiting my transport right on schedule. I waited from noon until 4p.m. while intermittent sheets of rain lashed me. It reminded me of some sort of sad song, "I waited in the rain for hours but you never showed."

     It was becoming obvious that my ride was a no-show. This was cause for substantial concern on my part as I had only one extra day before I was to grab the ferry home to meet some time sensitive financial obligations. Failure to catch the ferry home might cost me dearly. What to do? The distance back to Rock Harbor was not overly great. I would have 2 portages to do and some 15 miles of paddling. But it would mean paddling around Blake Point which had a rather notorious reputation for nasty unpredictable currents and continually troublesome water conditions. I figured if I could get to Duncan Narrows by this evening, by headlamp if necessary, then I could hit Blake Point at first light. After all, I had a big decked boat which was entirely suitable for rough water.

      I had my gear loaded by 5p.m. and was off. Further complicating my logistics was a nasty thunderstorm had abruptly hit just before I was going to launch. I waited out the worst of it but realized that daylight was burning and it was now or never. As the lightning crackled about I comforted myself with the thought that I would probably never know what hit me. The 1/2 mile of open water seemed to take forever but after that the following seas greatly aided my time. I made decent progress across the portages and hit Duncan bay with some daylight remaining. I paddled hard and got to the Narrows only to find the campsite occupied. A group of power boat fisherman had set up but they welcomed me with open arms and made room for me and my gear in one of the shelters.

      About 20 minutes after I arrived a Park Service boat shows up in camp. Much to my surprise the pair of Rangers had been searching high and low for me. They had arrived at Belle Isle shortly after I had left (having been delayed by the same thunderstorm). Then they looked for me in Five Finger bay and finally caught up with me at Duncan Narrows. I had met the woman Ranger at Malone Bay a few weeks back and we had chatted for a while. The Rangers went on to inform me that the reason the Voyager 2 didn't arrive to pick me up was because it never left the mainland due to very high sea conditions on Lake Superior. They also informed me that the vessel would be making the run tomorrow and I could expect a pick up if I was inclined to return to Belle Isle. We exchanged pleasantries and I informed them of my intention to paddle Blake Point early in the morning. They noted that the lake had calmed significantly but their comment was duly noted, "you will PROBABLY be fine". Although I felt no impending trepidation I slept very poorly that night.

 Day 26 / Sept 3rd

      I hit the water before sun up with perfectly calm waters in the Narrows and envisioned a placid uneventful paddle around Blake point. Blake point extends some 2 or 3 miles out into Lake Superior. The long thin tapering point is noteworthy due to the cliff like shoreline which causes substantial deflection waves. Incoming rollers break against the cliffs and bounce back out to meet the next set of waves. The resulting chaos can be very challenging for boaters of all types. By the time I was 1/2 way out I felt like I was in a washing machine as the big swells of yesterday's blow were causing very confused seas. To make matters worse the wind had come up and the seas were starting to build. There was also a brisk current running and I noticed I was moving quite rapidly out towards the end of the point. There were several "false" ends however and right when I thought I had reached the tip there would be another stretch of turbulent water to contend with. The big boat handled everything in stride however with only a few waves coming over and onto my bow deck and I never felt seriously threatened with capsizing. When I finally reached the very tip of the point I had fully expected to transition into calm and peaceful waters but I couldn't have been more wrong. When I rounded the point I surprised myself by bursting out laughing. I was greeted by long lines of 4ft surf as the rollers were also on this side of the point but were breaking hard on a series of shallow reefs. I paused, uncertain of my course of action but I soon noted that the surf was not continuous and if I timed everything right I could get on top of the broken waves and get into a slot of sorts. It proved easier than anticipated and I glided into the calm waters of Merrit lane.

Merrit Lane

      I had planned to have a "real" breakfast at the Merrit lane campground as well as rig a rod for trolling. It was there that I met none other than the "Dynamic Duo",  Joe and Brain once again. It was a very cordial and pleasant breakfast and I spent at least an hour conversing with them. Come to find out they were both United Methodist Pastors. They had been to many amazing destinations including the Arctic and Denali. I really enjoyed meeting them.

      I was soon off with a Coaster Brook trout offering happily trailing along. It was some 4 miles to Tobin Harbor and then about 1/8 mile portage to Rock Harbor. I made good time and landed at Tobin Harbor only to come upon Dean and Emily who were also loading their gear. They were the young couple I had met at the portage in Duncan Bay and again at Belle Isle. Dean asked if I was taking the ferry, the Queen, back to the mainland. My ticket was not until the next day but the thought of pulling up stakes early suddenly became very appealing. Dean and Emily offered to portage my mountain of gear to the ferry while I handled the boat and I gladly accepted. They made short work of my stuff in 2 heavily laden trips while I wrestled with the boat. I was exceedingly grateful and if I hadn't met them when I did and received their help it would of been unlikely I could of gotten my gear to the dock in time.

      There was some suspense however as the boat looked to be completely full and to be honest I was dubious about my prospects of getting on board. I quickly paid $6 for a shower and picked up a clean T-shirt in the gift shop to try and present a more acceptable image to the Captain who would be the decider on wether I would be having a good meal on the mainland that evening. I stood idly by while the boat was loaded with passengers until finally the Captain gave me the nod. Hurrah! The 3.5 hours went by quickly and we were soon offloading. Dean and Emily declined my dinner invite having already made plans, but, Lord bless them, they once again moved my gear to my van and helped load my boat. What outstanding people!

     It was now some 7p.m. and I had anticipated staying the evening in Copper Harbor but a big event had every hotel and motel room booked solid. An annual mountain biking event was still going strong. The "Copper Harbor Trails Fest" drew people from all over the country. In the Mariner eatery I met a guy from Iowa who had been coming faithfully for over a decade. Who knew? After dinner I went and watched live entertainment in the park. "The Last Revel" were an excellent trio out of the Minneapolis area. Mountain bikers are quite the happy rowdy bunch and the intensity level was quite high with practically everyone dancing and laughing. I thoroughly enjoyed the evening howbeit in a more reserved manner befitting my age and energy level. I was quite content to be a grinning active observer rather than a participant. A great ending to a great trip!

 Thanksgiving

      Naturally the first on the list is the Lord God who cares for me more than I can understand. All during the previous winter I had planned a trip to Woodland Caribou Provincial Park. But I kept hearing "Isle Royale" in the background. Physical issues began to make the far more rigorous Woodland Caribou trip more and more impractical. Finally I heeded the "still small voice" that Isle Royale would indeed be the destination I should pursue. But 3 weeks before departure I think I herniated a disc in my back and was barely able to walk. Add in the hip and knee issues and the entire venture was put into serious doubt. To complicate matters my business had robust obligations as well. I strongly began to question if I should even go or perhaps go for an abbreviated time frame. Finally I decided to ask the lord what I should do and before I had finished speaking He answered ......"Go and get Healthy". And indeed this is the best I have felt in at least a year with little or no pain in my hips, knees or back and much improved mobility!

     I also thank the most important person in my life, my wife Lori. She is not so thrilled to see me leave each summer for a month but she accepts it. I understand that it is a big sacrifice for her and I certainly acknowledge that. Hopefully I can come back a better man for having been in wild places.

      I also would like to say thanks to the many kind and interesting people I have met along the way as they have greatly enriched my experience. A special shout out goes to Dean and Emily.