Day 1 (aug 3)I finally arrived in Red Lake Ontario where I promptly checked in at the Woodland Caribou Provincial Park office and payed my camping fees for the next 24 nights. I was quick to offer to take Claire to lunch. She is greatly invested in the park, an admirable woman and owed a debt of gratitude to those who use the park. She politely declined and then I was off to visit with Harlan of Red Lake Outfitters. This would be his 8th year in business and I am glad to see he is making a go of it. He also politely declined my lunch offer.
After a cursory sniff of my armpits I made my way to the Howey Inn where I chomped on a burger and quickly got back on the road. I had 55KM of dirt road before I could embark on a much anticipated canoe venture. Just before arriving at the parking / staging area I viewed a sign which stated "caution portage trail crosses roadway". I immediately assumed that would be my route and I jauntily unloaded and moved all my gear down the trail and to the side of the lake. I returned to my vehicle to lock up and have a last peek at the park services "big board" and the map and notices posted thereupon. More by chance than anything else I glanced next to the board and Lo and behold another alternate portage trail presented itself. My error became clear in an instant and the completeness of the self deception was so startling that it evoked a rather wide grin on my person as I stood stupefied and feeling a bit sheepish.
Fortunately the mistake only cost me about 250 meters but it delayed me considerably as I would not only have to regain the lost ground but also move the gear in the right direction. Since it would now be impractical to launch before the onset of darkness I decided to move my gear lakeside and spend another night in my van. On my last of 4 carries I heard a vehicle pull into the lot. This was quite unexpected but fortuitous and proved to be a positive development. Glenn was also going in solo and we had a bit of dialogue until the bugs drove us into
our respective vehicles for what turned out to be a stormy and blustery night.
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| Glenn |
Day 2 (Aug 4)
Since Glenn and I were going in the same general direction we more or less travelled together. Glenn was a likable sort and I enjoyed his conversation. We both admitted that the first 1,100 meter portage was a bit exhausting. I bid him farewell in the afternoon and set up camp in the late afternoon not far from the infamously named "Knox Bog Trot" which would, without doubt, be the hardest portage I would encounter. The "Bog Trot" earned its nickname not for its 1 mile length but for the initial 400 or so yards of deep muck and mire.
Day 3 (Aug 5)
The "Bog Trot" wouldn't of been quite so bad if I had been doing the usual 2 carries that the vast majority of canoeists employ. But due to the length of my trip as well as equipment brought I was doing 4 carries. By the time all was carried through I had certainly had enough of muck, mud and mire. When I eventually popped out on the shores of large Knox Lake all I could see was turbulent water and whitecaps as far as I could see. I had the option, however, of setting up camp as a nice flat mossy spot at the side of the lake looked quite inviting. But if I were to make Musclow Lake in reasonable time I knew I would likely have to deal with some rough water on several of the larger lakes I would pass through. I loaded up and paddled near shore as I made my way around the big lake in about 3 hours. Right now I am camped on the Bloovein River and hope to make Laurus Lake tomorrow as Glenn has advised me of an excellent campsite on a prominent point.
Day 4 (Aug 6)
The last 2 nights campsites have presented themselves at very fortunate times. Both times the sites presented themselves at around 6P.M. Just in time to set up before the rains. Campsites can be few and far between in this country.
This mornings breakfast is the same as every other......oatmeal with raisins and dehydrated apples and cinnamon. The new stove system, a "Solo Stove", has a bit of a learning curve. It is a "twig stove" and operates via twigs and other organic material. The design is ingenious in which the air becomes gasified which greatly enhances efficiency. I could envision where the stove could become a frustration however without ample amounts of Birch bark or Wet Tinder (chemical fire starter). A watchful eye is required as the little stove is oft hungry and needs to be fed. All things considered it was a good call and beat hauling in canisters of isobutane fuel for 20+ days.
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| solo "twig" stove |
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Oh man.....what a day! I am rather thumped. I left camp at about 9a.m. this morning and didn't arrive at this fabulous campsite on Laurus Lake until 8;49 p.m. I had just enough time to set up camp before darkness descended. It was a distance that I should of been able to do in 1/2 the time but the wind was was up hard in my face for most of the day. I had to ease around every large bay while I paddled near the shoreline instead of the more favored travel style of "point to point" which is far more direct. Several times things got a bit sketchy as I started shipping water over my gunnels. That is never a good sign whilst in a canoe. To make matters worse a large tree had fallen across the last 750 meter portage trail leading to Laurus Lake. The entire area had been subject to a burn and was a nasty tangle of downed logs and underbrush. I ended up falling while trying to navigate around the fallen tree and "turtled" with my pack on. I had a difficult time extracting myself from the awkward position as one arm was pinned and the other arm had my watch tangled in my pack strap. But I finally reached my objective and a hearty thanks goes out to Glenn.
This campsite is indeed spectacular with an excellent protected landing. The lay of the land is flat and fairly open with room for several tent sites. Excellent views on 3 sides and all with no Mosquitoes! I am indeed blessed!
Day 5 (Aug 7)
I slept well but awoke in the morning with a fair share of aches and pains. The wind had finally lain during the night and if I knew what was good for me I would already be on the water before my nemesis arrives. So far it has blown hard every day.....seemingly always in my face. I was up at 6 a.m. And am enjoying coffee and oats on the point as the sun comes up. I'm not sure it gets much better.....thank you Lord! As I sit here the occasional aggressive splash betrays the presence of fish. This campsite has much to offer and with the Bloodvein River dumping into the lake a mere 10 minutes away (a walleye magnet) fishing options are magnified. I am, however, committed to exploring Musclow Lake but I would be surprised if a better situation presented itself. This location is certainly a consideration for a destination place in spite of the occasional noisy motorboat from the Fly-in fish camp. Well, enough dilly-dally, time to get going.
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Finally a calm day! I made excellent time off large Laurus lake by paddling directly to the Bloodvein River where I continued to the first set of falls which required a portage. At the base of the falls was a boat from one of the fish camps. "It would be a lot faster if you just paddled over the falls" quipped one of the fishermen. "Yea, I'll get a running start" I replied. We had some more light hearted banter and before I shoved off I asked "Hey, when's shore lunch"? The answer was not long in coming, "in 20 minutes, just up around the corner, your welcome to join us", and with that they were off. The invite sounded appealing as I hadn't eaten a real lunch or dinner since I had started and had survived by eating "bars" during the day and had been to tired at night to prepare dinner.
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| shore lunch |
Around the corner on a small island I was astonished to find not only the boat I had originally encountered but 2 other boats of fishing guides and clients. The guides were whipping up a veritable feast. I soon fell in with the guides and guests and was surprised to see the elaborate set up of propane tanks, burners, chairs and tables. I was also surprised to see a very large and unique lure which was adorning their rods......Shadzillas and big Jakes were quite noticeable on several outfits........"yup, just troll them in 20 ft this time of year for big pike" commented one of the guides. Then he promptly showed me some recent pics of 40" pike and 30" walleye. He also mentioned that Musclow, my destination, was his favorite lake and he related having caught numerous 40" pike in the spring using a fly rod. |
| Shadzillas |
The feast was fabulous and I enjoyed meeting everyone immensely. It was a fine time! The day stayed calm and I made good time down the Bloodvein River. Navigation was a bit tricky without a GPS as the myriad of islands and bays required constant attention to the map. The sumptuous meal had reinvigorated me however and I made it the entire way to Musclow arriving at about 7 p.m..
Despite being a calm day I was greeted by slow rollers which immediately left me with a less than favorable first impression of the big lake. The water still hadn't settled from the day before, not a good sign. I paddled quite a distance searching in vain for a campsite and when I finally found a place it would rate as only a 1 star site which was quite the contrast to the 4 star I had left earlier in the day.
I am in a bit of a quandary as I believe it would be very easy to get windbound here. Hanging out at a 1 star site is not my idea of a good time regardless of how good the fishing is. I am tempted to extricate myself in short order while I still can and head back to Barclay Lake for a few days. I'm not sure if I'm a coward or just being prudent. The campsite at Barclay Lake has some shade and a sandy beach. Musclow at first glance seems awesome but I'm just not sure it's for me. I settled in for the night on the 1 star site with very mixed feelings about how to proceed.
Day 6 (Aug 8)
Yesterday was a big mileage day. I have decided not to let the lake bully me, but I must find a decent campsite. My intention is to paddle my way around the lake and hopefully find a site on the western shore. The eastern side looks most appealing with the smattering of islands and the entering of the Musclow River, but it is subject to take a pounding from the prevailing western winds. If I could carve out a place for myself in the lee of those prevailing winds then maybe, just maybe, a little boat and big water can co-exist on this undoubtedly world class fishing lake. It may be little more than wishful thinking but I would be forever kicking myself if I didn't at least give it a hard look. In my favor I have brought my large silky saw and if I can find the right combination of decent landing and flat ground maybe I can cut my way in. I can see my advertisement now......"MT's Fish Camp, why fly in when you can be treated to multiple 12 hour days of torture and sleep on the ground all before you get to wet a line". Tis true, I have not made a cast or wet a line or used one of the seemingly endless fishing lures I have brought. But first things first. I had to get here and now I have to establish a camp. The logistical hurdle, and what I found so demoralizing, is that according to the park services campsite map most sites are located near the entrance of the Musclow River where it enters Musclow lake. The area would be battered on most days or at least most afternoons. The campsite map shows precious few sites on the western shore of the big lake with almost 3/4 of that shoreline having no established site whatsoever. The plan will be to set up at an already established site and put up with the potential for being wind bound and explore the possibilities of the western shore from there.
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Amazing day! Thank you Lord! My apprehensions that were instantly formed upon arriving here have been confirmed. This is not a lake to be trifled with. I pulled out of my 1 star site about 8;30 this morning intent on inspecting the campsites marked on the park services campsite map. But with just a slight breeze I was already looking at a bit of a chop and slow rollers. The problem is the waves have several miles to build and then they are forced though the gaps in the many islands at this end of the lake. I fully realized that by the time I had gained the north end of the lake I was going to be taking a pounding especially if the wind picked up even slightly.
I kept getting a "prompting" of sorts to turn around and head towards the south end of the lake. This made sense as it would put me in the lee and thus calmer waters until I could gain the western shore. I began to pass where I originally entered this large body of water, that being the exit of the Musclow River, and I remembered what a fellow named Martin Kehoe had said via a social media site (BWCA-a paddling forum) that if I needed a campsite the big flat rock at the Musclow River and lake of the same name meet, might just work in a pinch. I had given it a peek on the way in and was not especially impressed with what I had seen. It was overgrown and had a poor landing.....obviously not an established campsite. But I decided to park the boat and get out and give it a hard look. Several flat areas, which are in short order in this country, offered themselves as tent sites. The landing was a chief concern however as where I was parked at now was precarious at best. But a stones throw up into the river an excellent place to load and unload offered itself. I started to visualize this Rocky elevated point not for what it was but what it could be. The more I evaluated the location the more appealing the prospect became. It had the huge advantage of being not only on the lake but also on the river as well.
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| the camp |
Fishing options in the river presented themselves should the lake get rough but more importantly I was Captain of my own ship. I could call the shots if I wanted to stay or leave. The lake was no longer in charge......I could leave anytime. A huge weight was lifted off my shoulders and I quickly went to work. The first task was to make a trail from the landing to the camp. Then I spent at least 5 hours with the silky saw brushing and pruning and opening the site up. Next to go was ground litter and any rocks. When I was finished, at a bit past 4 p.m., I was mightily pleased at what was accomplished.
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| the view from the sunset porch |
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| Musclow river / the landing as viewed from camp |
Day 7 (Aug 9)
Super gnarly was an accurate moniker for what took place last night. Incredible winds, buckets of rain and boatloads of lightning. The storm lasted throughout most of the night but it came in 3 seperate heavy waves. The lightning was so bright as to be blinding and really got my attention. As the second of the 3 waves came through I believe that my newly established camp took a strike. It was like someone shot a gun off in my ear. I have never experienced anything even remotely close. I gave out a loud and grievous yell wondering if my time on earth was at an abrupt end. Then I called loudly on the name of the Lord, "Jesus, help me"!......My body felt odd and peculiar and I immediately wondered if I had recieved a shock. A still small voice provided no small measure of comfort...."calm down, what you are feeling is adrenaline, you are alright". Later upon reflection I reasoned that if a bolt had hit the camp then the insulation of my sleeping pad was probably quite helpful in protecting me. My ears were ringing for quite some time afterward however. When the 3rd wave hit I was more or less shellshocked but I found strength in prayer.
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| another big storm approaches camp |
This morning is quite cold, windy and drizzly. Probably a good day to sit in the hot tub and then watch some football along with some good cheese and crackers. I will hunker down until this blows through. I am very thankful that I have the electronic reader, the Nook. It has proven its value in a big way already.
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It is now 1 p.m.and the weather has turned and it is now sunny with a smattering of clouds. I recieved my first visitors this morning via the Sabourin lake fish camp. This was the same camp that I had enjoyed a shore lunch with on my way here. The camp has a boat cache that they employ to take the occasional day trip to Musclow to sample it's dark waters. They motored up, took one look at the waves and turned right around. I did not recognize the guide as being any of the fellows I had met the previous day. We exchanged waves and they departed.
Today I had to change the angle of my tent site as it was excessively steep. I am glad to have brought the saw as I suspect leveling the sleeping area will take some time. But before getting started I decided to do some casting. It is, after all, the primary reason I have come all this way to begin with. Within 10 minutes I had a nice eater sized walleye but I was in a bit of a fix what to do with it. I had already decided that I would not be making a habit of cleaning fish in camp. Stay here long enough and keep cleaning fish and sooner or later Mr Black Bear might take an interest. So I will find a place to perform the task which won't attract unwanted visitors. As I prepared to release the fish I noticed within the rocks at the shore a dandy natural livewell. How excellent is that? This camp is starting to look like the perfect option. And to think, I almost tucked my tail and slinked off!
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| tent pad levelling |
Today was awesome in spite of being wind bound. The main job was leveling my tent pad which probably had a 12" to 15" drop. That in combination with the big storm afforded me very little sleep last night. I found and cut dead lodge pole pines to take up most of the required space and then I topped my handiwork with evergreen boughs. Everything came out as well as expected and should afford a good nights rest. After completion I took a twenty minute fish break and caught 2 more decent walleye and one smallmouth bass. It's satisfying that fish can be caught right from camp. So far the trip has been quite fulfilling and has challenged me on several different levels. The storm last night along with the lightning strike was about all the "adventure" I care to have however. I remember feeling for my body to make sure I was still in it! Super scary stuff and has promoted a new found respect for what comes out of those clouds. And to think that the Lord is as fast as the Lightning from the east to the west......the speed of light!
Day 8 (Aug 8)
I was greeted by a beautiful calm day. Everything was still and quiet. It took me about 2 hours to pull the boat and fishing stuff together. When I venture out I must be prepared in the event I am unable to make it back to camp due to weather conditions. When I finally got on the water it didn't take long to confirm what I had heard about the lake......its a veritable walleye factory! I kept getting 20" walleye from 8ft of water all the way down to 30ft. I started shallow but slid deeper thinking the larger walleye would be deeper......nope, all seemed to be cut from the same mold going around 18" to 20". After a quick shore lunch of walleye I decided to turn my attention to Pike. It was SHADZILLA time! What I had read about the big lures certainly inspired confidence but what clinched the deal for me was that the Sabourin lake fish guides used them. I put the big paddle tailed lure down and in less than 10 minutes I had a 16lb northern posing with me for a picture. I usually fish until dark but I'm beat so back to camp.
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| shadzilla time |
Day 9 (Aug 11)
The day dawned overcast and mostly calm. Directly off my front porch about 1/4 mile out is a reef I marked yesterday. Given these perfect overcast conditions I should be out there but I am content just to sit, reflect on Gods goodness and enjoy camp. I brought back 5 sizable rocks yesterday to start construction of a fire pit. Whats a camp without a fire pit? I still have plenty of jobs to do to make this the best campsite it can be. Here is how I would rate the site so far; 5~views, 4~canoe landing, 3~shade, 4~access to water, 2.5~tent pads. The only thing keeping keeping the site from being mostly perfect is the tent pads are not totally flat. If I ever come back I will likely bring some bags of cement to help level them. I wonder what Chewbacca is doing next year? "One bag on each shoulder Chewie.....and stop complaining"!
I had originally thought to call the site "MT's Fish Camp" but have opted instead to call the site "Camp Wolf Spider". I now have 3 big momma Wolf Spiders protecting their broods down by the fishing rock. While Wolf Spiders are active hunters (no web for entrapment of prey) these have a spun a tenting of web and within its confines have deposited their eggs. One nest is already alive with hundreds, if not thousands, of mini fanged creepy crawlers. Wolf spiders are quite large, being palm sized, and quite aggressive should push come to shove. Judging by the size of those fangs I suspect a bite would be painful. When I got a little to close in order to take a picture the response was impressive as she is definitely jacked up for action with me. I smiled and couldn't help but admire her protective instincts. I have named the three Doris, Maggie and Lafawnduh (in honor of the cool black chick in the movie Napeleon Dynamite).
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| Doris |
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Back out on the water I went trolling a Rapala Taildancer and continued to connect with 20" walleye. Next up I put on a Legend muskie lure, a large jointed crankbait.......more 20" walleye! I am starting to notice a theme here! Some of the best fishing structure I have found is the 1/2 mile of shoreline in front of camp as well as the mouth of the river. It is rocky and bouldery with flats but deep water nearby, definitely big fish country......the schools of bait I mark are also a big plus.
I will need to "Man Up" and troll this shoreline at night. The situation couldn't be any more favorable for doing so. The formula doesn't quite have the correct ring to it however......alone in a vast wilderness, in a canoe, at night, trying to catch a 30" fish with a lure sporting 8/0 treble hooks.
Somewhere out there is scads of whopper walleye. All I have to do is figure out how to get them to chew. It probably doesn't help matters that I spend the prime morning hours between 6:30 and 9 a.m. eating breakfast, writing this journal and organizing camp.
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| typical Musclow walleye |
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Just around the corner from camp is an awesome sandy beach. I have an acceptable place to bathe in camp but for a swim nothing beats a sand bottom! I also gathered up several more rocks for the fire pit. I have decided to locate the pit at the rear of the front porch just off to one side. I will make it large enough to be noticeable from the water so other canoeists can utilize this prized spot.
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Another big nasty storm is on the horizon and after getting everything secure I fished off my front porch as I watched it's inevitable progress. This one looks worse than the previous calamity but I looked on stoically realizing nothing could be done. Right at dark I popped a rather nice pike but fooled around and let it break me off. One half of my brain was watching the Lightning bolts touching down on the far side of the lake and the other side of my brain forgot I was using light tackle. Soon thereafter I sought the shelter of my tent where the glow of the Nook cheered me.
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| more big storms |
Day 10 (Aug 12)
It rained during the night but not very hard and the expected electrical event complete with gale force winds never materialized. Whew, that was a relief! This morning is overcast and calm and not especially cool out. Today it is back to the Shadzilla and I will probably run it the majority of the day as I plan to explore the southern end of the lake. Now I understand why one of the guides at the shore lunch asked me "how many" Shadzillas I had brought in. They seem more durable than most plastics but the one I have been using has many deep cuts in it. I am pleased that I have brought in some Super Glue and feel I can double the lures life with it. No small consideration when using lures which cost between $20 and $30.
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| battle wagon |
Since it was calm I decided to troll the 70, 80 and 90ft of water in front of camp first for Lake Trout and also explore the possibility of larger walleye locating offshore. Out went the Rapala Taildancer and in came 3 quick walleye......all about 20"! All caught suspended offshore. I couldn't make it up if I tried!
I continued on paddling the southern portion of the lake and made my way to the western shoreline all while pulling a Fire Tiger Shadzilla. No big fish made an appearance but several smaller pike knocked the fire off the big lure. The fishing prospects in this area, with the very notable exceptions of 2 small walleye laden islands, were mostly null and void. Seems like a big empty bowl in this southern area of the lake. But the day was pleasant and the paddling sublime. What a day!
Got back to camp at 6 p.m. and worked on the site until 9:30. Except for finishing the fire pit the site is completed. From what I have seen it is easily the nicest camp on the lake and hopefully the few travelers which venture this way will find it. And, after removing several rotting logs, I can upgrade the tent pad rating to a 3. I fished off the porch until 11p.m. and caught one chunky 2lb bass and several small pike.
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| fishing off the porch / Triangular "fishing rock" visible mid-picture |
Day 11 (Aug 13)
Slept well last night and have largely foregone the daily dose of Alleve. Cool, breezy and overcast to start the day. There is just enough chop on the water to make me reluctant to venture forth. I will head up into the river for a while and see how the day is going to pan out.
Before I could muster myself to fish up in the river I had a realization of sorts......how nice would it be to thin out and open up the forest which so harshly abutted up against camp. This would entail a significant outlay of time and labor......Perfect, just my style!
From 9 a.m. until 3 p.m. I pruned the living, cut down the dead and removed the fallen all while clearing the ground clutter to a distance of about 10 to 15 yards and I am just getting started. As it was it was a tangled mess and a bit harsh on the eye. At about 3 p.m. there was a calm and I looked wistfully upon the waters realizing I needed to be out fishing at such a time as this but I was famished and spent the next hour making lunch. All told I burnt 2 hours of almost flat calm conditions, a seeming rarity in this country. I did catch the "tail end" of the calm and trolled for Lake Trout once again in 80 ft of water directly in front of camp but no takers.
Then a wisp of wind, then a breeze and finally more substantial winds put me up in the river where I caught 4 walleye in short order and promptly cleaned 2 for the evenings dinner. By the time I had returned to camp it was a full on gale. From flat calm water to 3ft whitecaps in under an hour! Musclow, not a lake to take lightly! Had I paddled any significant distance from camp I would of definitely be spending the night far from camp as the conditions were supremely dangerous for travel by canoe. I'm glad I spent yesterday poking about the southern end as I can rule that out as mostly unproductive water.
As the waves battered my porch I prepared dinner down by the boat landing which was oddly quite calm. So far I have been in 2 serious blows and tarp and tent have been up to the challenge. If anyone makes a better tarp than Dan Cooke of Cookes Custom Sewing I am certainly not aware of it.
My first "real" hearty dinner of the trip......Pasta Prima Vera and walleye! It was a huge plateful and I must of needed it as I immediately felt invigorated. While the wind and waves crashed I went back to the wood clearing task at hand. Every now and again I would take a casting break and chuck out the Shadzilla. It was amazing how many smallish pike eat the thing. Now I have 2 Shadzillas (out of the five I have brought) that are cut and sliced up pretty good and have been put aside until I can repair them with super glue.
Day 12 (Aug 14)
It Blew hard all night long and the waves pounding the rocks made quite a ruckus. I finished "Red Platoon" via the Nook electronic reader. It was the story of an an estimated 350 Taliban fighters who stormed the remote outpost of 50 or so soldiers in Afghanistan......riveting stuff! Next up I have decided on "Papillion". Why oh why did I pick a French author? I find them tedious with their short choppy construction. I will try and adapt and get into rhythm and commit myself to wade through it. Can't be any worse than the Knox bog trot.....or can it?
This morning is still breezy, overcast and quite cool. I am glad to have brought Glacier Gloves but I may end up regretting not bringing my down coat. Today is day 12 and the trip is 1/2 over give or take a day. So far its been fantastic! I have certainly done less fishing than I had envisioned but thats OK. I am enjoying myself and choosing to do my hearts desire.....no regrets! I am thinking about trying some flutter spoons coupled with diving aids. Perhaps the Lake Trout which reside here will find that to their liking. But that will have to wait until the waters calm a bit.......But in the meantime, what did I do with that Silky Saw?
After breakfast I probably could of taken the boat out but the chop on the water had just enough edge to it to make me think otherwise. Besides, my new camp project has seized upon my imagination. Clearing the woods would certainly open things up and if done correctly help achieve that "park like" quality that a prime site has. I worked from 9 a.m. until 2 p.m. without ceasing until hunger got the best of me and I settled down to a barely tolerable lemon cheesecake mix. But I was hungry and it was heavy so I ate it.
I was perhaps a bit "anal" about the whole forest clearing project, stepping back and carefully evaluating what should stay, what should get pruned and what had to go. Even the moss was cleaned of loose twigs and sticks. Yup, a bit anal......But the transformation is nothing short of remarkable (if I do say so myself!). What had been an almost impenetrable tangle of dead logs and brush was largely vanquished and as a result the site feels much larger as it now incorporates the woods into its space.
The labor has indeed kicked my tail however and when a brief shower hit I laid down and was asleep more or less instantly. I awoke at 4 p.m. and found the lake flat calm. I need to be better at seizing these angling opportunities.....but if the truth be told I am content to just be here and any fish are just a bonus. Rather peculiar talk from a fish-a-holic whose chief ambition when planning the trip was trophy hunting. But the beauty and solitude of this wild place has taken the edge off that desire. And that is how it should be I suppose.
I got out on the water about 4;30 p.m. with overcast skies, light winds and just enough on and off showers to have me putting my rain coat on and off every 20 minutes. I decided to run one of the big Shadzillas offshore in 50 to 80 ft of water. Who knows what lurks in the deep!.......A 15" walleye is what lurks out there! My head wants to explode, what is a small walleye doing in 55ft of water attacking a lure which is 1/2 its size? Tis strange times in this distant land!
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| small walleye eating a shadzilla |
A little further along I hooked another fish out deep on the Shadzilla which caused some line to come off the reel via the drag but it came unglued. I would of dearly loved to have seen what it was. I switched over to the oft successful Rapala Taildancer with nary a strike. Along the backside of an island I came across a curious site. What I first thought was a swimming Caribou was none other than a Bald Eagle. It was doing the "Butterfly" type swim stroke as it "swam" diligently towards shore. My initial inclination was to paddle over to it in order to observe it more closely. But then I surmised it likely had a fish in its talons of sufficient size as to prevent it from lifting it out of the water and thus it was doing what I do with fish that are to big to handle......taking it to shore. I realized that if I bothered the eagle it would probably relinquish its grip on its prize and fly off thus depriving it of a hard won meal.
I continued on without result until a thunderstorm put me in camp around 9 p.m......The fish did not seem to be in a biting mood as even the ever present 20" walleye seemed disinclined to strike. I settled in with Papillion which has sparked a bit more interest.
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| the heavens declare His glory |
Day 13 (Aug 15)
It is now 9 a.m. and the day is fine and the lake flat calm. By the time I get on the water it will be tennish and I will have missed the best part of the day for August fishing. I have my alarm set for 6 a.m. each day but I linger in my sleeping bag until 7 being a bit sore from my labors about camp. By the time I have coffee and breakfast and get organized the morning is "toast". I probably need to reverse my order. Be on the water at 6 a.m. and fish until 10 and then come in for coffee and breakfast. Hello? Anybody home?.........But this is a world class wilderness lake........aren't the fish just supposed to jump into the boat? I bet at certain times of the year it can seem that way but its August. Lets see if I can crack the big walleye code today.
It was calm and stayed calm the entire day. At times the entire lake was as a mirror. I rigged up a pink lady diving aid and behind it put a big Nichols flutter spoon which is a full 8 inches long and sports a 4/0 table hook. I was hoping to get a large Lake trouts attention. I pulled the planer/spoon combo for at least 2 hours. It was hard work and my shoulder let me know about it. I ranged from depths of 70ft to 120ft and caught several small walleye and small pike but no Lake Trout.
I switched up and started trolling the outside islands for pike but other than the usual assortment of small fish it was no dice. I took a break on a rocky bar and noticed many year classes of smallmouth bass. They are considered an "invasive species" but they are certainly here to stay.
At about 4 p.m. a floatplane touched down on the western shoreline of Musclow and I was able to ascertain via a monocular that they had pulled up to a big prominent point that I had been interested in before I decided on camping at my current location. Its probably a good thing I'm not established there as things may have gotten a bit awkward. The plane stayed several hours and only departed when evening drew near. More than likely they dropped off canoe folk but unless they range far and wide I will probably not see them as Musclow is a large lake.
I decided to run a new lure on the way back. A "Mega Bass Deep Six" was soon adorning the end of my rod tip and the rather expensive Japanese diver was soon trailing along behind my vessel. The walleyes just couldn't resist the enticing wobble and it was one fish after another. The last couple hundred yard stretch of shoreline before camp I stringered 2 walleye and along with some hash browns I had a huge plate of much needed viddles.
The weather had turned threatening in the evening but I tidied up camp and went back out to fish the mouth of the river and jigged with a Hogy. I caught plenty of fish but none worthy of having a picture taken.
Day 14 (Aug 16)
Read for my obligatory 20 minutes last night and am finding Papillion similar to Les Miserables in as much as it seems tedious. "Les Miserables" the Broadway production is fabulous and never fails to stir ones emotions. Perhaps they can come out with "Papillion" the Broadway play and then I will be happy.
I awoke at 4:30 a.m. and wrestled with getting out on the water but fell back asleep until 6 whereupon I roused myself and fully fortified with a Cliff Bar I took the boat out for a spin in the wee morning hours. I trolled my shoreline in front of camp and the island/reef which was a 1/4 mile offshore. The "Usual Suspects" all made an appearance but much like the elusive mastermind in the movie of the same name the big fish refused to reveal themselves. I did, however, catch the largest walleye so far, a rather ordinary 22" fish going about 3lbs. How I would dearly love to have a big flat of Nightcrawlers, a plain hook and 6lb test line. The fish here are fat and happy. I have never seen such an abundance of forage......schools of bait and swimming leeches are everywhere!
The last 2 days that I have fished offshore I have plucked a toad out of the water and set them in the boat. I had intended on bringing them back to camp as an official mascot of sorts and to help thin out what is sure to be an overpopulation of Wolf Spiders. But alas, when I arrived back at camp the Toads were no where to be found. Evidently they were determined to do themselves in, "Goodbye cruel world, you can't make me eat bugs the rest of my life" and they jumped back overboard!
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| Camp Wolf Spider |
I trolled my way the furthest north yet and like what I see. The day had started out flat calm but a wisp of wind stopped me in my tracks far to the north and had me doing an immediate about face. I caught a pile of walleyes including several 22" fish on a rainbow colored long A Bomber. I decided to switch over to a "Believer" and still caught lots more walleye on the big jointed plug. But as I trolled up on a shallow rocky spot I went to reel the lure in lest it hang up and another good pike jumped on it. Longer than the first one but not as thick, another fish right at 16lbs which I was pleased with. Perhaps I need to be concentrating on water which is 15 to 20ft instead of 20ft to 30ft.
A thunderstorm was indeed bearing down on me so I made my way back to camp where I crashed hard for an hour. It is now 8 p.m. and I drank some powdered health food supplement for dinner. The storm has passed and the lake is once again flat calm. Quite a contrast to my first several days here.
Day 15 (Aug 17)
At a little after 2 a.m. I heard a very loud splash in front of camp. The night was perfectly still, the moon completely full and I was awakened in an instant. I paused for a few seconds listening intently for the shaking that occurs when a bear emerges from the water as they shake themselves much like a dog. But instead I heard more splashing and a very queer mix of vocal sounds which I interpreted as a combination of loathing, fear and anger. This was emanating from the direction of the disturbance. It had the faintest resemblance to the chatter of an otter but far more tortured sounding. My curiosity was piqued and I grabbed my powerful light and went to investigate. Whatever it was had made its way across the river and was directly opposite my campsite all while making the peculiar utterances. My bright light clearly illuminated the far bank but I was unable to discern anything but the rocks and trees and thus the mystery remained unsolved.
I roused myself at 7 a.m. this morning and have decided against pulling on cold wet boots in order to be on the water during a prime fishing time. Bah, Humbug. Those who know me know I fish hard but it is such a pleasure to sit on the Sunset Porch and enjoy the day as it unfolds that it is not to be missed. Again I say "Thank you Lord Jesus" for I am truly blessed.
As I sit quietly I can here something in the woods across the river. Limbs are being broken as it makes its way and I quickly grab my camera and stand at attention surveying the opposing shoreline. But then all is quiet and the opportunity for viewing the elusive wildlife of Woodland Caribou is gone.
The day has dawned magnificently with clear skies and light winds. I could get used to this! It was to be another fun fishing day and I did quite a bit of light tackle casting using a gold colored Chatterbait. I finally got on the smallmouths right where I figured.....on the outside of the islands. No big ones but fairly fast action once you found the spot. In between the smallies there were plenty of walleye and several pike.
Later in the day I decided to troll once agin for larger pike and out went a Sebille Swimmer, the largest version they make going about 8" and weighing at least 8oz. Back it went and I was merrily on my way trolling the 15ft contour line. In a rather unique place where 3 islands came together I had a nice strike. When I first felt up on the fish I thought that perhaps I was hung on the bottom but when I felt a couple of big head shakes I knew I had hooked a very respectable Northern Pike. I spotted a place near the bank where I would be able to park the boat and land what was surely a big fish in safety. When I landed the fish I was astonished to see a rather small pike of about 24". My first thought was "geez, they can really fool you"...........But then I thought "NO WAY"! I knew what I had felt and when I examined the smallish pike there were 2 evenly spaced marks where another fish had grabbed hold. It was with no small amount of awe when I visualized how large the head of the fish would of have to of been to make the marks.
Day 16 (Aug 18)
More Papillion last night and the prospect of 400+ pages is not appealing. Hopefully, as with a Charles Dickens novel I will sit back after its over and say "Wow, that was great". But somehow I doubt it. It is now clear to me why the British have dominated the French in everything but Cuisine.
It rained a tad during the night and this morning is gloomy with intermittent rain but not especially windy or cold. Thunder is booming all around me however as if some big front is passing through. I am content, however, drinking coffee and eating my mornings mush under my tarp. I keep thinking back to the sleight of hand performed yesterday by what had to be a pike approaching 50 inches or perhaps more. I'm still trying to piece it together. My best guess is the big girl was following the Sebille when a smaller fish nailed the plug and that triggered an attack from the big girl ("hey, that was mine"). The reason I believe that is from the very start the fish felt quite heavy. Or perhaps, like in a Hollywood movie the director called "cut, wheres the stunt double.....insert the small pike now". In any event I will never forget the feeling of disbelief and awe as I started to put 2 and 2 together. At first I was so incredulous that I tried to tell myself that it was the line that had made the marks (not unusual) but there they were......2 perfectly spaced crescent shaped marks spanned across the middle of the fish probably some 10 inches apart. That, my friend, is a big set of chompers.
I am perplexed about what to do today. Nothing sounds quite right. There is just enough wind to keep me off the water especially with this front coming through. Who knows when the big winds will hit and leave me on some island a mile or two from camp to spend an uncomfortable night. But I can't just sit here blathering away........DO SOMETHING!
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Oh me, Oh my! I have spent all day scouting and then putting in a trail to a significant rock formation jutting into the water about 1/10 of a mile from camp. When I paddle by this this steeply angling large granite facing I typically catch a walleye and the underwater structures as revealed on my depth finder looks amazing. Great spot to fish from if your windbound. I initially thought it would be an easy task as the distance is not to terribly great. No way Jose'. I spent the first 45 minutes scrambling in this thick labyrinth just trying to get there. Complicating matters tremendously was a lot of steep rock chasms but I finally figured out a route which would go. Unfortunately it took lots more time and effort than I imagined.
5:27 p.m. was when I finished with putting the trail in. It took the entire day but its an excellent walk that leads to a high vantage point which overlooks the lake almost in its entirety. The path, in many places is akin to more of a road of sorts, is free from all low limbs and underbrush as well as most fallen logs. Even though it is obvious enough where to walk I also cut blazes, especially at the entrance to the trail which starts in camp. This would be to pique the interests of anyone who stays here. The view alone is worth the walk.
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| trails end and the view north |
MIGHTY MUSCLOW.......not a lake to be trifled with! While I worked on the trail today I was regretting slightly having not gone fishing instead. It had been overcast with slightly bumpy seas but certainly I could have found somewhere to fish. But in the last 10 minutes the wind abruptly shifted direction and is blasting big time. It is astonishing how fast this has come up, like someone threw a switch! It was absolutely not something that a canoe would be able to negotiate. Another nugget of wisdom to store away (Better watch your ass out here!)
I am so glad this didn't catch me when I was up north several days ago. Right now I have 3ft whitecaps pounding my porch. I will give this hard wind a few hours and then I will make use of my trail and fish off the newly established "fishing rock" and see if this wind pushes any big fish up on the point.
Day 17 (Aug 19)
I never did make it to the Fishing Rock yesterday but chose instead to finish the work in camp. With the big waves coming into the river and pushing far upstream it was a prime opportunity to dispose of the decades of debris which had accumulated. This was taken to the tip of my camp and jettisoned into the river where it was carried and deposited on the already timber laden shores upstream. The camp is now truly "complete" and having opened the woods up made a big difference. I was also quite pleased with the trail and how pleasant it was for walking. But the ironic thing is "will anybody actually use what has been accomplished"? I have been here for probably 10 days and other than the motor boat and the float plane I haven't seen a soul. This is obviously off the beaten path. I would at some point like to return, hopefully with a chum (Hurry up and retire Tim!)
It had blown throughout the night but the wind and waves seem to be subsiding. An Eagle keeps wheeling overhead, chirping in their unique way, and probably wanting to be fed again. Maybe later big boy as I have yet to cook some walleye in foil over a fire and finally break in my Purcell Trench Travelers grill which I have been carrying around in the bottom of my pack for several trips.
Today was a fun and satisfying day although it blew all day with on and off showers.I spent the day tromping between my camp and the fishing rock via the newly established trail. Just the walk itself is quite pleasant and several times I caught myself muttering "this is so cool". The added bonus is the fishing was good. Two decent pike made an appearance as well as several walleye and a few smallmouth bass. When the rains came I would hightail it the 6 minutes back to camp where I would read until the next break. Later that evening the fish lit it up off the front porch and it was one after another for a while and gave meaning to the phrase "Laugh Out Loud". The hot lure in the low light conditions was an orange backed large X-rap, a color I seldom use. It is such a plus to be able to catch fish right from camp.
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| fishing rock |
Tomorrow I pull up stakes and begin a slow leisurely paddle back. The first stop is Barclay Lake which is not so very far from here where I will set up shop and sample the fishing for a day or two. And then onto Sabourin Lake where I will stop in at the lodge and say hello. Then I will drop into Laurus Lake and seek out the campsite I stayed at on the way in. Thats the plan anyway but much depends on the wind and waves.
Day 18 (Aug 20)
Today is move out day. I am ready. I had an awesome stay but its time to ease on back towards the barn. I will take my time and hopefully sample what some of the other lakes have to offer. But before I do I have decided to make a few videos reflecting on my time here. I picked up a "Go Pro" video camera a few years back but I never use the thing and can't quite figure out is application as it applies to me. So in the interests of not having spent my hard earned money in vain I shall endeavor to make use of the thing. Such forced attempts are quite often rather "cheesy" but it could perhaps be personally meaningful and who knows, it might prompt someone to stay at Camp Wolf Spider.
I Broke camp and was on the water at noon. My boat seemed quite unstable and lacked its usual feeling of stability. Naturally after a few weeks supplies diminish and weight ratios change. I stopped and moved some things about and the difference was immediate. I may have missed some golden fishing opportunities further up the Musclow river. I had fished the river near camp and was amply rewarded but very interesting prospects are further downstream. Perhaps next time.
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| mushrooms |
The day was sunny and fair with only a moderate breeze and the paddling down the river was quite relaxing. When I entered Barclay Lake the topography flattened out and while still an attractive lake it didn't compare to the raw rugged beauty that is Musclow Lake. Barclay must be loaded with fish however as it is loaded with Bald Eagles as well as several White Pelicans. I made my way to the high point just off the lake on the Bloodvein river that had been suggested by one of the Sabourin Lake guides at the shore lunch. It is indeed a fine spot, high up off the water with views in several directions. I was set up by 4:30 p.m., took a wee little snooze and then readied everything for fishing on the morn.
Day 19 (Aug 21)
I was a bit cold last night. I had come within a hairs breadth of not bringing my Under Armour Heat Gear set of long underwear. They have been a lifesaver and have made my time far more comfortable than it would of been otherwise. And if not for down booties, glacier gloves and fleece watchman's cap I would of indeed been uncomfortable.
For a reason I cannot put my finger on, and on the coldest morning so far, I was out of the warmth of the sleeping bag and making breakfast by headlamp eager to be sampling the waters of Barclay Lake. Maybe it was because yesterday was a short day or maybe its because this campsite, while still very nice, does not hold 1/10 of the charm, scenery and ambience than the site at Musclow. At Musclow I was perfectly content to sit and idle the first few hours of the morning away and absorb the beauty of my surroundings.
Barclay is fairly flat with no vast expanse of water in which carries the eye and ignites the imagination. The color off the water is quite different here as well. It is of a different nature being very fertile, almost greenish in color. Fish should be easy to fool here along the Bloodvein river system.......And that is how I like my fish........Big, fat and dumb! Tally-Hoo!
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| Barclay lake Northern |
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In my first hour I had one pike at 12lbs and another at 14lbs. Nice thick bodied fish who put in a good showing of themselves in the fight department. My intention had been to troll around the entire lake but the wind cam up with a vengeance and put an end to the fishing. I had to paddle to the length of the lake to gain the lee shores where I might get back in the drivers seat and meet some more finny friends. My adversary was a stiff opponent however and it took close to 2 hours to make my way to the opposite calmer end of the lake where I could again make my offerings in a practical manner.
In the middle of a bay was a smooth rock that protruded out into the bay and out from that I began marking fish. Hmmmm.........1 p.m., must be shore lunch time. Two passes in front of the rock resulted in 2 walleye. A beach with a protective rock facing offered itself nearby and a lunch of walleye and hash browns was soon whipped up.
An odd squeaking noise nearby caught my attention and a garter snake and a leopard frog were having a chase. The two thrashed in the bush a bit but the snake was victorious. I felt pity for the frog and went to rescue it but the snake was far more concerned about getting its prize down the hatch as it were rather than fearing my close presence. To the victor goes the spoils I guess and I let things take their course.
I caught 3 nice pike today, two at 14 lbs and it is only 5 p.m.. Barclay is indeed a fine fishing lake as I suspect all the lakes along the Bloodvein river chain are. Well time to get prone for an hour and then set things in order for pulling up stakes and heading to large Sabourin Lake.
Day 20 (Aug 22)
After my snooze yesterday I started contemplating my planned travel to Sabourin lake. Questions started arising........"Would I be able to paddle on the big lake" and " would I be able to find a decent campsite"? These thoughts and others started to gain traction. And why exactly did I wish to go to Sabourin anyway when I should be setting my sights on getting out instead of "sight-seeing".
As a result I decided to return the way I have come, down the Bloodvein river, and back to the "oh-so-nice" campsite at Laurus Lake where I enjoyed a brief stay some time ago. Traveling the Bloodvein had the added advantage of being a smaller body of water and can provide some refuge from the wind should it decide to blow. I can already hear the wind in the trees and have had on and off sprinkles throughout the night. I will forego the usual breakfast and instead grab a few Cliff Bars, break camp by headlamp and get an early start. Adios Amigo!
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| solar power works |
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I was on the water at 7:30 paddling with a purpose. I wanted to obtain my goal of Laurus Lake and the coveted campsite as early as possible. Firstly I wanted to beat the afternoon winds which could easily come upon me as I entered the big lake. Secondly I wanted to arrive at the site before anyone else could lay claim to it.
I arrived at Laurus Lake at 1:36 and thats pretty good time for a solo canoeist with a single blade. Now that I am here and able to look back I am so glad that I didn't settle for staying here but instead pushed on to Musclow. I believe the Lord had something special for me at Musclow and I would of missed it by staying here. But I'm back and I might just spend an extra day or two here. I loved the color and clarity of the water, the secluded tent pads amongst old growth pines and the open rocky point which had great views.
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| eagles nest |
Day 21 (Aug 23)
I was up and out of the sack making breakfast by headlamp. I had hoped for a calm day but it is not to be so and a steady chop is on the water already. It is now a bit after 9 a.m. and I have been biding my time trying to figure out what the weather is going to do. Everything is ready but the steady chop coupled with slow rollers is causing me a pause. The weather seems unsettled, like its not quite sure what it wants to do. I have decided to remain in camp and forego fishing Laurus unless conditions become ideal. I have not really rested a single day since the trip started and I have some work ahead of me to get out so its probably not a bad idea to get recharged.
By noon the weather had deteriorated to the point I decided I had better put up my tarp. In the process I stepped into a nest of yellow jackets and was lucky to have been only hit twice. It rained hard for about 2 hours and the wind stayed strong throughout the afternoon and evening. I split my time between reading and casting off the point where I caught numerous small and middlin size pike.
By 9 p.m. I decided to take the tarp down and looking back I am glad to have waited out the rough weather here than somewheres on Sabourin. I went to bed in preparation for a mornings departure. The wind, rain and waves seemed to be gradually subsiding and in fact there seemed to be some clearing on the horizon. I was hoping for a stellar paddling day come morning. But I couldn't have been more wrong. About 11 p.m. I started seeing flashes of lightning and by midnight the storm hit. The initial burst of wind was very severe, in as much that I could feel it streak by underneath my sleeping pad. All of this while a disco ball of lightning flashed round about. And of course torrential rain just to complete the picture. My biggest concern was the huge old growth pine which had a pronounced lean towards my tent. If it decided to fall or was topped out by a lightning strike I was in for a world of hurt.
But I reasoned the ancient tree had surely seen much worse and had survived many such blows. So after supplication to the King of Kings I folded my arms and placidly resolved to be still and let it pass. I awoke several times during the night always wondering how my boat had done during that initial blast of straight line winds. Fortunately I have developed a habit of securing it firmly at all times and it moved not at all as far as I can tell.
I kept up hope that the wind would subside and in the sheltered campsite it seemed so........but the waves crashing continuously on the shore told the true tale.
Day 22 (Aug 24)
It is now 8 a.m. and fortunately its not raining so I was able to make coffee and oats. Part of me wants to stay here until the weather improves as I have 2 very large lakes to cross up next. But who is to say when that will be? I will pull out and fight and claw my way back at least until the margin of safety becomes unacceptable. Then I have to hope for a flat piece of ground, not always so easy to find in this country.
I left Laurus Lake at about 9:30 with unsettled weather. By the time I had crossed the first 750 meter portage I was soaking wet from walking through the brush. Soon thereafter the wind began to lay but a steady drizzle started which was to continue throughout most of the day. I quickly decided that if the wind was going to allow me, then I was going to try and knock off my 2 big lakes in a single day.
Long story short I am now camped right on the start of the Knox lake Bog Trot portage. I arrived at 7:56 and had enough daylight to set up comfortably. It either drizzled or rained mostly all day but I was determined to take advantage of the mostly calm conditions. The wind, however, finally did return and in all its fury but I was already 3/4 around large Knox lake. I spent a good portion of my paddling on Knox up in the reeds in only a foot of water trying to seek relief from the ever increasing whitecaps. If the day is nice tomorrow I will consider fishing Knox lake.
Day 23 (Aug 25)
I was very glad to have made the Knox Portage yesterday as now I only have smaller bodies of water to negotiate. The place I am camped, on the shores of Knox Lake just off the portage trail, had looked so inviting on a sunny warm afternoon some 20 days ago after an exhausting mile long portage. But in reality it is a dank uninspiring location filled with pines who look like they could come down at any moment.
Yesterday was tough but satisfying. By the time I hit shore I was wet, cold, tired and hungry. I had made the lengthy paddle and portages only on the morning oats and 3 Cliff Bars. I had a difficult time getting warm that night especially my feet which were encased in down booties yet refused to get warm. I ended up putting more clothes on and jumped back into my sleeping bag. Later in the night I noticed it had gotten light out and I assumed the moon had come up until a squirrel chattered and I promptly looked at my watch and lo and behold it was 6:57. Wow, I must of been thumped!
I clambered out of my tent and gave out a "Thank you Lord" for I was glad to be in such a beautiful place as the Northwoods of Ontario. I was greeted by gloomy skies and a steady misty wind which seemed like it had continued unabated throughout the night. I had strongly considered staying at Knox and resting a bit and fishing. Then my plan would of been to do 2 of my 3 carries across the Knox portage in the late afternoon and would finish up that following morning.
I had met another tandem paddler on day 2 who mentioned good walleye fishing at the island in front of the portage as well as a good campsite on the island itself. But it appears the weather will infringe upon my plans and force my hand. It is now 8:43 a.m. and I have finished breakfast and a double shot of Starbucks via instant coffee. It is cold, windy and starting to rain again so nothing for it but to get my rear in gear and get myself and my things back through the bog. Time to saddle up!
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| my favorite long portage through the peat moss |
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Oh boy, what a day! Since leaving Musclow I have been triple portaging instead of making 4 trips across each portage like I did on the way in. With the food stores depleted I was able to consolidate some bags. I was looking forward to knocking off the "Bog Trot" in quick fashion especially since I had one less trip to make and besides, I had "toughened up" a bit since then. But I was in for a very rude awakening. The bog was ready for me this time after two days of rain and its embrace was to prove incredibly tight. I took the boat across first and I used my spare paddle as a walking stick of sorts. The trees on either side of the trail prevented me from doing much else than walking through the middle.
On my first trip through the bog several weeks ago I rarely went in much past my calf down in the muck. Now I was regularly going in past my knee and once I went in up to my thigh. If not for the paddle I may have had a hard time extracting myself. After getting the boat through my attitude towards the bog changed from, "Oh its not so bad" to "Man, this is for real"! The other loads were easier as I could use the paddle as a brace and keep to the sides. I still ended up doing 4 carries as I was loathe to walk through without the support of the spare paddle. I didn't finish up the portage until after 2 p.m. and was pretty well wiped out.
But there are always reserves of strength if one but asks and onward I went knocking off a few small lakes and 2 more portages. But around 5 p.m. my body let me know that enough was enough and I made use of the park services campsite map to find an absolutely beautiful island site high up with spectacular views. It was the third site I had looked at (the other 2 being uninspiring) and I felt totally blessed.
Day 24 (Aug 26)
I was up again by headlamp making my cinnamon flavored gruel. The dehydrated apple chunks ran out a few days ago which is a bit of excitement which is missing to this ritual of oats, coffee and writing all while enjoying the rising of the sun.
So far all looks good for a travel day. Air is still, a smattering of clouds strewn about but otherwise mostly fair and sunny. It is during wet conditions that one needs be especially concerned when walking the portage trails. Falls while carrying loads can easily result in a debilitating injury. Time to get going!
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Whew! I had to knock off 3 long portages to get out. I started strong but 1/2 way through the day I began to admit I was one tired pup. This was the third big day in a row and it was starting to take its toll. I took my time paddling on Lund lake savoring the stroke of the paddle.
Everything was loaded up and then I walked back down to the sandy shores of Lund Lake for a much needed clean up. Since there was nobody in the lot I walked back buck naked letting the sun and breeze dry me and as I sang a little song I thought I heard a bear say to a chipmunk......."Now theres something you don't see every day".
Two and a half hours later found me at the Howey Inn where I ordered a fabulous filet and stayed way to late having made a few new friends. Thus ended my trip in the wild beautiful place that is Woodland Caribou.
