My pack is embarrassingly heavy. I haven't weighed it but I know it is over 55lbs and I wouldn't be surprised if it was over 60lbs. I have food for 12 days since I want to fish some lakes off the super highway which is the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). The trail is graded fairly well with nothing to radical but I gained quite a bit of elevation today and was consequently short of breath. But no headache today which is a huge plus.
I did 7.5 miles today and my left leg started cramping a 1/2 mile from my intended campsite. My shoulder was giving me some grief as well and all things considered I was to tired to fish and will retire early. I'm glad the heat wave that they have been having out this way finally broke as there was no way I would of made it with temps in the 90's today. I believe it will be a rather chilly night.
Day Two - 8/07
I had met a guy named Dale yesterday. Interesting fellow.......a retired police officer who know worked as a physical trainer having had worked with iron men and pre olympic athletes and of course ordinary folks as well. We had chatted briefly on the trail yesterday and then again in camp. I had caught up with him today and since our goal of Spectacle lake was mutual we more or less hiked together. If I thought my pack was heavy his was absolutely obscene and he mentioned he had started out at some 70+ lbs.
The Talus fields of loose rock were a bit tough on us but the views were incredible. We took several breaks throughout the day as the terrain was lively. If one doesn't pause, one doesn't get a chance to look around as the route was somewhat exposed and a wrong step could result in a fall. We took over 10 hours to cover the 11 miles. The last 1/2 mile into Spectacle lake was challenging but finding a campsite was even a bigger challenge as there were quite a few folks about. Finally we pleaded with some guys from Seattle if we could share their site as daylight was fading fast. They were punished for their kindness in the form of some loud snoring from Dale!
Day Three - 8/08
I was rather slow getting up that morning. Yesterday had really taken its toll and I felt absolutely beat up. I had intended on taking a day off and focusing on fishing but Dale suggested we make tracks. I had taken a great liking to the man and was impressed at his conversations with some of the other hikers we had passed. Perfect strangers would be telling him their life story only 10 minutes after meeting him.
After breakfast and coffee I started feeling a bit better and after some map reading I packed up camp. Dale did the same thing but he suddenly decided his trip was over. His knee was feeling unstable and there was swelling. Rather than get another day or two inside and have it blow up he decided to stay at Spectacle for a few days and regain some strength and then head back. I was somewhat surprised as the guy was ripped and had some serious physical conditioning. He had, however, talked himself into believing he could muscle a 70lb pack through some of the roughest country the PCT has to offer. And he's not alone.....I believed I could average 10 miles per day, which is fairly modest for many hikers. But the reality is you had better be carrying a pack which is closer to 30lbs than 55+.
Since we shared the same faith, a belief in Jesus Christ as Lord and Savior, we prayed together before I departed. I believe God puts certain people in our path to help us on this journey called life. I left Dale and after a tricky climb out of Spectacle Lake I did only 5 miles to Lemah Meadows. My feet are a concern and I had better keep an eye on them. The Gore-Tex lined boots don't breathe particularly well and the accumulation of moisture from perspiration gave me prune feet yesterday along with one sizable blister.
Got to my site next to lovely Lemah Creek around 3 P.M. and set about doing laundry and cleaning up. Finally, a campsite to myself! I have 6 miles to my first reliable water source tomorrow and then 8 more miles before the next one. Somewhat doubtful I can knock off 14 miles in one day so I will have to carry water to have for the morning breakfast. I guess I will just have to see how it goes.
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| Dale |
Day Four 8/09
A huge day for me and a bit of a breakthrough. I did some 5 miles of switchbacks going up the side of a big ridge. It was shady, well graded with pine needles and the views were amazing. Up near the top I was astonished as an F-16 type fighter jet came roaring loudly out at low altitude between two mountains sideways to my person. The sheer power on display was simply awesome and I couldn't help but let out a shout!
Some time later I stopped at my first water source.........A Tarn (an Alpine pond) which served me well. I watered up and applied more tape and moleskin to my battered feet and after eating lunch I was on my way. The trail stayed slightly elevated for a couple of miles and then descended in a series of broad sweeping long switchbacks. I could see large Waputus Lake from above. It looked very inviting and I quickened my pace. I took a little break at one of the campsites I had intended on staying the night at and took another Alleve and munched a Cliff Bar. I strongly considered staying put, after all I had already done over 10 miles but it was only 4 P.M. and the trail was packed dirt so I committed. Down, down I went and felt like I was really rolling. I arrived at Spade Creek Campground with the sun already behind the big ridge I had descended but the situation was vexing to me. There was only one small site and it was already occupied by a couple of thru hikers. They offered to move over for me but it was impractical and I decided to move on. Wapatis Lake was another mile or so off the PCT and I figured there had to be some campsites along the lake so off I went in the gathering gloom quickening my pace as darkness demanded.
I reached Wapatis Lake and found a couple of campsites but I was separated from the water by cliffs and very rough terrain. Water had become my overriding concern and, after dropping my pack, I grabbed my water filter and some bags and hiker further along the trail hopeful of getting the all important liquid. The thought of no water was intolerable after such a day and would be required if my body was to heal. I almost began to despair when suddenly I spied a way through the mostly impenetrable tangle which is the shoreline of large Wapatus Lake.
I set up camp and then ate dinner by headlamp. A rough night was had by yours truly as my legs were protesting the days exertions. I took an old prescription pain killer but it mattered little. Leah Meadows was 6.5 miles to the pond and then 8.5 to Spade creek and add on another 1.5 to Wapatus where I am currently camped and I hiked 16+ miles today which is a personal best in the mountains. But I have to give credit to God.......I had asked Him for strength so how is it that I am surprised when He grants my supplications?
Day Five - 8/10
I am so glad to have pushed on to Wapatus Lake. Right now I sit under a large pine tree up on a cliff of sorts overlooking the still waters while drinking coffee and eating oats. Its a still, calm and peaceful morning . The lake seems to support a population of trout as I observe the occasional small one swim by. Everything is idyllic with the lake like glass and the occasional Bullfrog bellowing (surprise!). My intentions are to try and find a place to camp which has access to the water. Failing that I will push on to friendlier environs where I might be able to actually wet a line and catch a fish.
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Oh how I am blessed! Before packing up and heading out I decided to check out a faint trail leading out of my campsite and leading along the heights of the lakeshore. Usually such paths lead only to the latrine. I had followed it for a ways last night but grew impatient. Now I followed it to its conclusion and it brought me to an amazing peninsula/island jutting out prominently into the lake. A more perfect spot would be hard to imagine. Excellent flat spot for the tent, open yet some shade and water on 3 sides.....great for fishing and swimming. I will likely stay for 2 days and read, write, fish and gather my strength. The only drawback was a bear track and a wolf track in the mud between the mainland and the island/peninsula but if they leave me alone I will leave them alone.
Tent is up, food bags hung and now time for a swim. Ah, cold but quite refreshing! My idyllic little island had suddenly become a solo nudist colony as I dried off. I was rather confident of total seclusion in such a hard to find and out of the way place. How wrong I was!........ The words "No F*cking Way!" soon rang out from the mainland. 3 guys with packs and fishing rods were staring intently at my position. The fellow with the vulgar language started my way and, after donning some attire, I climbed a rock opposite him......"I was hoping for a little peace and quiet" I stated emphatically. He responded in no uncertain terms claiming I didn't have to be a prick and he was trying to show his friend and son his pet fishing spot. He then went on to inform me that they had been planning the trip for over a year and he had in fact been coming to this spot for over 20 years.
His name was Mickey and after climbing aboard we spoke face to face. I told him bluntly that just because I wanted to be alone it didn't make me a prick. We ironed things out and they settled in with their fishing poles about 20 yards from me. I had also started fishing but I was able to overhear their conversations. I had assessed them incorrectly by first impression ("No F*ing Way") and after some time elapsed I felt compelled to apologize. I didn't want to put a stain on something that was supposed to have been special for them. I guess that commandment "Thou shalt not covet" applies to fishing holes as well. We got to talking and I found that they had ridden horses to get in and now were going to be day tripping to the various lakes.
The lead fellow Mickey pulled out a big spinner which looked lots more like a northern pike lure than a trout lure. I was astonished but he remarked that some big fish live in the clear waters of Wapatus Lake and he claimed a 3lb brown trout last year. That is a big fish indeed where most trout are measured in inches and not pounds. They fished about 3 hours and left having caught 1 trout about 14" long. "Whats your plan" I asked? They were going to day trip tommorrow and come back to the island in the evening. I had thought about spending another day here but the fishing was only marginal with 6 small trout caught and besides if they did come back they would need room for tents. Fair enough I thought but if the truth be known I was sad to see them go. Lesson learned......be open, be inviting. I'm learning lots on this trip and I bet Dale would of handled things differently.
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| The island |
Day Six - 8/11
I fished in the early morning some right after dawn but no dice. I am equipped to catch small fish but now I long to have my 8' steelhead rod, some braid tipped with a florocarbon leader and a big spoon. I would be able to fling the piece of hardware far out into the lake. Such a set up worked wonders on large trout in Glacier National Park.
I was out and on the trail by 9:30 A.M. and chanced upon Mickey and his crew. We talked for a while and he seemed undecided on a course of action. I will always regret not being warm and welcoming and feel I missed a divine appointment.
I continued on to Deep Lake getting there around 2 P.M. which is a short day indeed. With the pack getting lighter and having already put in days of 11 and 16 miles I thought I would do better today but I was dragging tail. Maybe the heat and humidity had zapped me. I set up right on the lakeshore and promptly had a little siesta. Afterwards I bushwhacked to the far end of Deep Lake by following a game trail which eventually vanished. Then I misjudged the steepness to the lakeshore and slid most of the way down. Fortunately the bank was mostly walkable by wading and numerous small rainbows came to my hand. I will likely be in bed before dark as I have a big day planned starting bright and early.
Day Seven - 8/12
Sure enough I got a nice early start and was on the road at 7:30. It was all uphill to Cathedral Pass but what a neat run! Topping out was very cool as well...........But I wish I could say the same for the trail down. Sand mixed with loose gravel and a somewhat overgrown trail made the footing deceptively treacherous and required more than the usual amount of concentration. There was a ford of a creek set in a canyon of sorts which could pose trouble for the inexperienced or those who lack confidence.
The day had started out quite warm but an hour after the ford the wind started blowing and the temps started dropping rapidly. The sky had gotten very overcast and all signs pointed to weather of some note. I weighed my options. To proceed up to Marmot lake might be unwise if lightening started crackling about. As I mulled things over I spied a beautiful little site right off the PCT. Pine needles instead of dirt looked very attractive and a small tarn nearby sealed the deal. The tent was quickly put up but the imminent weather soon passed. I was still glad, however, to have stopped. Only 8 miles today but it was enough.
Soon after my afternoon nap a mom and her two teenaged kids happened along. "Theres the campsite" one of them exclaimed only to be disappointed that someone was already occupying it. I suggested they stay but the mom was reluctant and I can't say I blame her as I must of presented quite the visage. But I knew of no more sites between here and Cathedral Pass and there was the obstacle of the ford which would prove troublesome to 2 first time tired teen backpackers. The mom consented and thought my advice prudent. Nice folks and I hope they enjoy their hike.
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| Nance and college bound kids |
Day Eight - 8/13
Looking back I can't help but suspect the hand of the Lord. Yesterday the weather change came abruptly and led me to stopping at the little site where I was blessed to get acquainted with Nance and her two young adults. I was impressed with Nance and her 2 kids. The young lady had spent time in Nepal at an orphanage and her future intention was to return. Her interest was in Social Justice and we thusly engaged amicably in a political discourse which also included her mother. It was quite stimulating, intellectually honest and devoid of the destructive emotions which usually accompany such dialogue. I felt comfortable enough with them to share some of what the Lord had done for me and it was then I found out that the young lady had associated herself with a stateside church. It was an interesting and enjoyable exchange and I felt it was a divine appointment I didn't miss.
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From a hiking standpoint it was a very good thing I didn't press on yesterday. I would of turned a blessing into a curse. The hike into Marmot Lake is a side trail off the PCT. I had camped almost within a stones throw of the Marmot Lake trailhead. The PCT is graded to such an extent that it is friendly to both horse and human. No such allowances are made for the side trails and the 3 or 4 miles into Marmot are challenging if your not fresh. I enjoyed the hike in supremely well but if I had done it yesterday my suspicion is my perspective would be 180 degrees opposite. I met some guys coming out of Marmot and they suggested I go to Jade Lake. I enquired of the trail head and they basically said that all that there was was a goat path up the side of some scree above Marmot lake.
I topped out at Marmot lake and stood transfixed at the beauty around me when suddenly an F-16 type fighter jet, inverted, came low across the top of the mountain above Marmot lake and then proceeded directly over my position all while flying upside down. A second jet soon followed and again I couldn't help but give out a shout. What a welcome to Marmot Lake!
I set up camp around noon and was settling in when 2 twenty something women came by with fairly sizable packs. "Whatcha going to do with those ice axes" I asked? They informed me that they were on an adventure with big plans and were going to camp on Jade lake, then proceed in the morning up on the glacier and traverse the high country off trail for several days. "Wow, some real women" I commented. The remark brought big wide smiles and they suggested that maybe they would see me up there that evening and with that they were gone.
I decided a snooze was in order and then some beans and rice for fortification. I left camp about 4 P.M. bound for Jade lake taking only my water filter, headlamp and trekking poles. The "trail" was indeed a goat path and probably went up 1000 ft over some fairly rough and steep terrain. Rock cairns often marked the way and I was exceedingly glad not to have a pack of any kind while negotiating the rock. One false step could land you in hot water.......very unforgiving here if one was careless. It took me a little over an hour to top out. I would pause often to scout the way and to look back and familiarize myself with the return journey.
The lake was just as advertised. An unreal jade/turquoise green with a glacier above it. The lake was nestled in a cirque of sorts and awe inspiring bare rock rimmed 3/4 of the way around. I continued on to the the young gals campsite and found them at the lakeshore getting water. We chatted about 10 minutes as I enquired more perfectly of their plans. "Up that glacier and through that pass and then a big multi day loop" was their reply. Wow I thought, how would one even get onto the glacier? "Whats your mantra" I asked? With that they both stopped and looked at each other. "We don't have one but I guess we should" they replied. "Can I give you one"said I. "Sure, why not"............And then I said 2 words......"No Mistakes". They voiced their approval and I hope they adopt it as their own.
I bid them farewell and now I had to make my way down. "Slow and steady" was my mantra and I got into camp in time to catch 2 very feisty Cutthroat trout. The biggest one, a nice plump 14" fish, struck right at dark on the famed proverbial "one last cast". What a day!
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| Jade lake |
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| marmot lake |
I was up fairly early and proceeded to catch another beautiful Cutthroat. They are much better fish in my estimation than the Rainbows in most every way. Breakfast and coffee are completed but as I'm writing this a whiteout is in progress. The cloud bank is coming over the tops of the mountains and floating over the lake obscuring visibility. I can barely see the lake and my thoughts go to the 2 young women. It is obviously much worse up there. Being socked in is no fun. Cold, wet and you often can't see more than 10 feet. Remember ladies, "No Mistakes"...........hunker down and wait it out.
I had pictured hanging in camp doing some reading and writing while I had a line out with powerbait all while soaking up some sunshine. But alas, it is cold and getting colder with sporadic fits of drizzle. I pulled out at around 1 P.M. and did 8 miles to Deception lakes. About 1/2 way there it started to rain more or less steady and I set up in the evening with it coming down. That night was cold but I just did play my cards right and kept fairly warm due in part to down booties, a down coat, fleece gloves, a North Face cap and of course a down sleeping bag.
Day Ten - 8/15
Stayed tucked in until 8 A.M. as I figured I was only going a short distance of 4 miles to Glacier lake where my intention was to fish. I really took my time and found the views on the way to Glacier as amongst some of the most enjoyable so far. I was eager to set up camp and try my luck but only one problem.......I found no access to the lake whatsoever. You could walk within viewing distance but no campsites were to be had that I could see.
The day was cool and cloudy and the high country was still socked in and foggy. I ended up doing 12 miles and reached Mig lake in the early evening and set up camp. Only 8 miles to Stevens Pass where the ski lodge is. I hear the snack bar is open Fri, Sat and Sun and that should motivate me to do those 8 miles in a hurry. Then I hopefully pick up the food drop that I had shipped to them and head back into Alpine Lakes Wilderness for another 8 or 10 days.
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| Yours truly near Glacier lake |
Day Eleven - 8/16
Another cold and dreary night. My left leg and knee were hurting so bad I couldn't sleep most of the night. I sort of feared the worst but got up and set off towards Stevens Pass regardless. I did the 8 miles in good time and found the area a hub of activity. The Ski resort used the chair lifts to transport mountain bikers to the top of a run. Who knew such a culture existed with lots of guys and a few gals in pads, helmets, gaudy outfits and specialized bikes. I was hoping there was going to be some sort of lodging but no dice.
I was going to pick up my food drop and head back into Alpine lakes but the thought of a full pack and 4 more miles to the nearest campsite had me hesitant especially after last nights agony. I had done 12 miles yesterday and my knee let me know about it in a big way that it wasn't happy. Another 12 mile day isn't what I had envisioned. The nearest hotel was 20 miles away and when some guys overheard me asking about town town they offered to give me a ride. I seriously considered it but felt checked inside and politely declined.
I ate a burger and fries but I didn't enjoy it as much as I thought I would. Then I went and sat at the bar and ordered a beer. The bartender was great and let me borrow his phone to call my wife as well as my mom who hadn't been feeling well. I soon emptied my glass and then went and enquired about my food drop. Hurrah, I'm back in business! More hot chocolate, protein powder and coffee all of which I had run out of. I hit the trail around 3 P.M. and made excellent time back to Lake Susan. I had been asking the Lord about my knee and when I got to the lake I sat in the cold water as long as I could, took another Alleve and then switched my sleeping position so my legs were elevated. Maybe I will have a pain free night.
Day Twelve - 8/17
My knee woke me up at about 3 A.M. and I had a hard time getting back to sleep but still it was probably 80% better than the previous night. I'm not sure what to think as it doesn't hurt much if at all while on the trail. I got rolling about 9 A.M. which is a late start. I decided long ago not to go back on the PCT but to check out another area so down Icicle Creek Trail I went with the intent of arriving at Square Lake before dark. It looked to be some 8 miles of following a creek and then some 3 or 4 miles ascending into the high country. About 3 or 4 miles in I came to the junction of another trailhead which was called "The Lakes Chain". I stopped, dropped my pack and had a Cliff Bar. I had already considered and ruled out the Lakes Chain but yet the thought kept lingering. The biggest negative for me about the chain were that most of the lakes were small.........small lakes generally mean small fish. But then I considered the variety of campsites which would be available vs. the take it or leave it aspect of Square lake. Besides, Square Lake was many miles distant and the "Lakes Chain" only 3 miles away. By the time I was done with my Cliff Bar I had a new plan and I shouldered my resupplied pack and set my sights upwards. It turned out to be an amazing adventure!
I use the description of "Butt Kicker" to describe the trail into the Chain of Lakes. Up, up and up it went with the occasional false hope as it flattened out for a while.........but then it would set its sights skyward. Occasionally I would employ a rest step where I would step......then breathe........then step etc. etc. It took me over 2 hours and probably closer to 3 to cover the 3 miles into the Chain and that with no breaks. But oh how delighted I am to be here. When I arrived at the first lake I was greeted by several small trout in the outflow stream. The more I traversed the area the more I liked it and decided I would spend the rest of my trip here. Beautiful scenery, lots of fish and not many people. You really have to earn your ticket to get here. I think my goal will be to read my entire New Testament of my Bible while I'm camped here.........take the occasional fishing break of course and have some rest and relaxation.
I might have to feign exhaustion when I get home in order to receive the proper care and attention needed to insure a full recovery.
Day Thirteen - 8/18
I awoke early in the morning driven out of the tent by an urgency to relieve myself and was so enraptured by the scenery that I promptly decided to sit outside and watch the sun come up. A few hours later, and by degrees, I noticed a haze coming over the landscape. The wind had shifted and was bringing the smoke from the fires, which had caused me to alter my original plans so drastically, into the area.
This morning has gone well however with the Book of Mathew read. I spent considerable time stretching as I was reading in the warm and hazy sunshine. The Lake is alive with dimpling and jumping trout as there is a black ant hatch going on. A fly fishermans dream.......An alpine lake with room to backcast and a hatch going on.
A Cliff Bar, some coffee, a swim and now into the Book of Mark.
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Through Mark and then some Chai Tea. In the evening I fished and tore up the little Cutthroats. Most of what I brought to fish with was utterly ineffective with the notable exception of a 3/16 oz gold or brown trout colored Daredevil. Kudos to the moderator on the Washington Hi-Lakers forum who steered me in the right direction.
2 other groups of campers arrived today but it matters little. All is calm and quiet and they are camped out of view. Alpine Lakes Wilderness is literally 1 hour from Seattle so it is little wonder that the entire area sees heavy use. From past experience I know that those who live in the Pacific Northwest are a hardy bunch and eager for outdoor activities. Tomorrow I am considering day hiking to the end of the Chain or the completion of the trail as it were. This entails another 1000 ft climb through a notch of sorts in the cliffs which encompass my position round about. I am told the views are extraordinary. Then I will descend and sample the fishing of the last pair of lakes on the chain. So far all 3 lakes I have fished have been, pardon the pun, loaded to the gills with beautiful Cutthroats and Rainbows about 10" long. Yesterday I caught a Cut which might of went 12" and had a bit of a hooked jaw and a bright red belly. Usually much larger fish sport such adornments and I am assuming this fish is a bit older than the others. Are there larger fish in these waters? Perhaps, but the little guys still make an enjoyable diversion with the ultra light tackle and 4lb test.
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| My campsite at "Chain of Lakes" |
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Day Fourteen - 8/19
Up again before sunrise to take in the scenery. I think I have found a new screen saver for my Mac. I would also have to rate this campsite as one of my favorites of all time. The "Ansel Adams" type scenery, the ease of movement, the little grouping good sized fir trees and of unique interest is my "table rock". The big rock is completely flat on the side facing camp and is waist high which enables me to stand right next to it and perform various camping related tasks. Nice!
I still have 6 days here and I wouldn't be at all surprised if I stayed right here. I am perfectly content which surprises me as I generally suffer from wander lust and am usually eager to see whats around the next bend. But I know if I leave I will be kicking myself......where would I go that would be better? Besides I have already done the 75 mile "J" section of the PCT and found it a fabulous stretch. My only regret was not taking more pictures of people I have met along the way. I would generally meet anywheres from 6 to 12 people per day on the PCT. Some interactions were brief but many others were of considerably longer duration and quite enjoyable. Some factored into my trip in ways I couldn't have imagined. Like the group coming out of Marmot who clued me about Jade Lake (written up in Backpacker magazine) or the lady and her dog who mentioned that they might go to "Chain of Lakes" where I sit at this very moment. The Chain had escaped my notice until, intent on finding it, I flipped my map over and observed the little gems. Had I not met her it is more than likely I would of blown right past what the Lord had for me. I am also glad to have stayed flexible in my thinking.
I still have to make my way out of here and going down is tough on the knees. I will just take my time and ease out. So far I have taken zero falls the entire trip. That is always a goal I have on any outdoor adventure. Falling means your out of control and that is unacceptable. My traveling style is certainly different from the thru-hikers I meet. They have their heads down and maintain a fast pace. My pace in the mountains is typically about 2 miles per hour average. But I will often stop, look and listen. I do not like the thru hiker style........Sure you can hike from Mexico to Canada but what did you really see if your head is down looking at dirt, rock and root the entire way?
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Another great day! I followed the trail up through the "notch". The views are superb. I believe I am seeing Glacier Peak in the distance which is a very remote and heavily glaciated mountain. Down I went probably another 1000 ft to Doell lakes where I did very nicely on larger than the average sized Rainbows. I poked around some and explored and was surprised to see some horse tracks. There must be another way into this country. I stayed several hours and made my way back to camp for a swim and a cup of Chai Tea.
I was most of the way through the Book of Luke when the Marmots started up with their whistle alarm call. They were congregated on the somewhat steep cliffs flanking my position. I quickly grabbed my camera and started scanning the open hillsides eager to see what had caused so much alarm amongst the resident Marmot population. I figured a bear or Mountain lion was coming through but instead I could make out what I believe to be a Wolverine. Dark brown on the sides with the back being lighter in color. Its gait reminded me of what I had seen of them on TV. It was a total eye opener how quickly it traversed the side of the incline, only stopping occasionally to look around. It took about 4 to 5 minutes to climb what had taken me at least 45 minutes to accomplish. I would of loved to have been closer.
The next thing I done was to go into the surrounding hills opposite the cliffs. I followed some game trails, seen a few grouse and then came across a bedding area of some large animal. There was piles of old dung around a large bare wore flat spot. Unfortunately the scat was old or I would of tried to get a glimpse by silently waiting.
Day Fifteen - 8/20
If truth be told I had been somewhat apprehensive about this entire venture. A surgically repaired knee, some back issues and 20 lbs overweight were my concerns. Throw on a big pack and a long rugged trip and the question could of easily become "what were you thinking"? And of a truth I had many aches and pains, especially when I would lay down for the night. Several nights I would be pleading with the Lord for some relief. These last 2 nights however, I have been completely pain free and have slept well. I have been doing a lot of stretching in the warm sunshine while reading Gods Word the Bible. My Pastor proclaims that reading the Word is the best healing remedy there is bar none.
This morning the lake and surrounding mountains are shrouded in fog. I can see blue sky above but I can't help but wonder if some rain is on the way. Today is Bible reading day and I intend to sit at the lakeshore with a line out and when I get 3 or 4 of the little buggers I am going to try out the Backpacker method of cooking fish via a plastic bag. I had pictured eating some fish most nights but for one reason or another it hasn't worked out that way. I guess its partly due to how very beautiful these fish are. I take care to try and release them unhurt.........but today we aren't taking any prisoners.
A cold front has arrived. I have almost every bit of clothing i brought on and am just barely comfy cozy. Got through John, Acts and several chapters of Romans today. I had to stop reading Romans as it takes some concentration to fully absorb.
Both sets of campers have left but were replaced by a group of 5 who were all packing fishing rods. Tonights going to be cold so I will eat some dinner of rice and beans to help stay warm. After dinner I will probably catch a few fish and call it a night. Tomorrow if the weather is nice I will hike back up through the notch and visit the Doell lakes again.
I am just starting to get the itch to get back home especially since the goal of hiking to Canada was erased by the wildfires. Fortunately I have the goal of reading through the New Testament and that gives much meaning and purpose to establishing myself here for such an extended period of time.
Day Sixteen - 8/21
Yesterday in the late afternoon I spent quite a little time walking and watching the game trails above camp. I'm not sure what makes its home up here. I know there are mule deer and blacktail deer in Alpine lakes and the north cascades. Anyway, it was a pretty cool ramble particularly since the day turned sunny and fine. I had thought the cold front was through but I had a rude awakening as last night was very cold indeed. This morning has to be in the low 40's maybe even in the 30's with the wind chill. This morning is also a total whiteout and I can barely see the lake. I still slept fairly well although I would of liked to have had a zero degree bag instead of a 30 degree bag. I find good sleep to be of paramount importance while doing rigorous outdoor activities.
I finished Romans last night by headlamp in my bag and am now on my way through Corinthians. I will have to record for humors sake what transpired yesterday with the group of 5 campers which came along. At my campsite the trail forks.........one path leads to more campsites and the other path leads largely to nothing but the game trails in the hills. I had interaction with the first group of 3 hikers which included 2 dads and one daughter of one of the fellows. I cued them to some of the more desirable campsites and as they left they informed me that 2 others of their company would be along in short order.
The others were soon come along and were two young men, each a son of the dads which had already passed. They stopped at the fork in the trail and had paused unsure of which way to go. I arose and walked towards them.........."Who seek ye" I asked? They immediately looked puzzled and asked "What"?...........Again I repeated, "who seek ye"? At this they become a bit perplexed and knew not what to say. And then I pointed in the right direction. They were particularly eager to hear about the fishing and we chatted for a few minutes. It would of even been more hilarious if, after there moment of perplexity, I had said, "What went ye into the wilderness to see?"........ (I can hear the lads now....."DAD"!)
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It is now 11 A.M. and I have spent the greater part of the morning at the last lake which for all intents and purposes looks like it should be fishless due to its very shallow nature. I had almost dismissed the lake but watched for several minutes and did just see the faintest dimpling of a rise so I decided to make some casts. The Cuts are there, in abundance and hungry! I quickly caught 8 or 10 and then became engaged in following more game trails. I found more piles of large pellets much like I had found at the bedding area of a few days ago.
I am back at camp for a cup of Chia and to get started on the 2nd letter to the church at Corinth. Its still cold, socked in and a bit windy. Hopefully the sun will peek out this afternoon. Today I have finally decided to go ahead and cook some fish. I obtained 3 volunteers in short order and used the Backpacker method and a freezer bag. Not bad at all but the whole operation uses to much fuel to be a viable long distance back packer option.
I spent some time visiting one of the Dads of the young men. They spend much of their time fishing. They are using large red and white bobbers and flies and they do manage to catch some fish that way. I gave the Dad a couple of the Daredevils which had been so successful for me. Hopefully they will put them to good use tomorrow as they are going up through the notch to fish the Doell lakes.
Day Seventeen - 8/22
Last night was the first night the cold got the best of me. There was just a hint of frost on the ground when I stepped outside. This morning the young lions were fishing not far from my campsite and I observed one of them using one of the Daredevils I had given the dad the night before. It seemed some instruction was in order so I hailed them and then proceeded to offer some instruction. The first thing I did was give the lure a wee little pull and sure enough the knot gives way. I retied a good knot and then showed them how to "flick" the little spoon out there and how a steady retrieve would catch the most fish. I also warned them about trying to cast to hard lest the line break......They sort of laughed at that and then sheepishly admitted that was exactly what had already happened with one of the lures. I immediately told him to go and get his outfit as I had 1 of the prized lures left. It left me high and dry but it was very much worth it since they had a stellar day at Doell lakes and came out tied at 17 fish each using the spoons. They insisted that their dads get some pics of the three of us and that made me feel good.
I was hard pressed to catch any fish but knowing that I had helped make their trip just a little better was totally worth it. The Dads were also very gracious and thanked me multiple times. I had also hiked over to the Doell lakes but I fished the smaller lake while they focused their attention on the larger lake. I thought it poor form to infringe on the quality family time.
Tomorrow is resting and Bible reading day and then a hike out to Susan Lake which will put me within easy striking distance of Stevens Pass and a bus ride back to Seattle the following day. 20 days seems about right and I may have regretted going for 30. This has been an absolutely spectacular trip and possibly life changing.
Day Eighteen - 8/23
A bit warmer last night and I slept well. My legs have been doing remarkably well and in spite of some significant elevation gain and loss yesterday I have had no pain whatsoever. I have been inclined to believe that this trip has been excellent therapy for my hips and legs which have been giving me some issues the past year. So much so that while in the airport on the way out I decided to get a massage which focused almost entirely on my legs. Almost $100 for a 1/2 hour but it sure helped get rid of an accumulation of tightness.
I'm sort of chomping at the bit to get going (Patience grasshopper). This morning is perfectly calm and the day is looking to be sunny and warm. I'm most of the way through Galations and am looking forward to seeing how much I can finish today. If any chapter and verse is lacking I should be able to finish up tomorrow at Lake Susan.
I bid the Dads, their sons and their lovely daughter goodbye as they were pulling out. Quality folks and I enjoyed meeting them. All the campers which had been here have now left except for me. I have been quiet as a mouse sitting on my stool and reading my Bible. A few hours goes by and I get up to stretch and I notice some disturbance in the water near the outflow of the lake I am camped on. Thats odd I thought.......I had never seen any trout come up into that very shallow water. And then suddenly out steps a big male mountain goat not more than 20 yards away from me.
It grazes peacefully all the while knowing I'm there. While not exceptionally tall the girth and sheer muscle on display was awesome and I felt like a pipsqueak by comparison. I quietly went and got my camera and even though the cold had sapped the juice from the batteries I was excited to see the film icon displayed. But who knows how much, if any footage I got. The goat is definitely a billy and he eats the grass down to the nub where I have made a practice of urinating. Then he proceeds to eat the dirt as well. He eats his way completely around my campsite but I notice that he is becoming more and more interested in me and my gear. Fortunately I have the group of trees behind me but at one point I believe if I took 2 steps towards him I could reach out and touch his head.
He has basically been in and around my campsite for over an hour now and I have become a bit unnerved. I have visions of him eating my boots or the straps of my backpack as I sleep. Finally I had had enough and spoke rather aggressively and he responded by getting stiff legged and showing off his musculature. He was challenging me and thats when I decided to get my trekking poles and point them at him and advance (my horns are bigger than yours). He didn't like that and he finally backed away. At this point I had seen as much Mountain goat as I cared to see on one trip and decided a retreat was in order.
With one eye on the goat I packed everything up. He sauntered up on the hillside giving me some space so I decided to get some water before departing. Down he came running and it seemed like he was trying to get between me and my stuff but I was just a little faster. Wow, this is surreal! I had been constantly on the look out for goats or elk and had been walking the game trails trying to get a glimpse of what was using them and he just walks right into camp and shows off. Truth is stranger than fiction!
I take my time getting out of Chain of Lakes and hike 4 miles or so to Lake Josephine which is a very pretty place indeed. I believe the change of scenery will do me good but what a memorable and exciting interaction. Certainly something I will never forget!
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My camp on Josephine was soon put in good order and I decided to go fishing. I had one spoon left which was not of the Daredevil variety but was somewhat larger and consequently seemed less effective on the smallish alpine trout but it was all I had so out it went. I flung the piece of stamped metal far out into the lake and let it plummet to the bottom before retrieving it. Several casts later, BANG!.......Fish on! Finally a big fish decided to dance and I had my hands full and was unprepared with no drag setting and my anti reverse engaged. In other words I was unable to give this fish any line which put the odds in the fishes favor. With the rod held high I quickly flicked the switch which would allow me to reel backwards to feed line lest the fish break the light line. I got the fish close but she was able to entangle me in the numerous logs which are present on the bottom of Josephine and secured a victory against me.
I was a bit disappointed and started walking back to my campsite for another lure. On the way I became acquainted with a Dad and son team which were going to hike what I had done last week ("J" section PCT) and had set aside 13 days to accomplish it. The sons name was Kyle, was 17 years old and a good sized kid for his age. I met them at the lakeshore near my camp where Kyle was fishing. I do not believe I have ever witnessed quite the presentation that Kyle had adopted for fishing. He was using 2 large bobbers, about 8 heavy split shots and the bait which hung some 8" below that. In spite of all this paraphernalia he lacked casting efficiency and would toss the entire works high in the air only to land a very modest distance from the bank.
I suggested that he would do much better by floating the Power bait up off the bottom and I also helped him with his casting technique. I had an amiable talk with his Dad and after some further fishing instructions with Kyle I called it a night.
Day Nineteen - 8/24
I was a day ahead of schedule thanks to Mr Billy Goat gruff and I decided to fish at the shore of Josephine while I finished up on my goal of reading through the New Testament. But first I went and visited with Kyle and his Dad at their campsite. They had just completed their breakfast when the Dad realized he had forgotten some prescription medicine and would have to hike back to the trailhead some 7 miles to retrieve it.
We had bid the dad farewell and Kyle and I settled in at the lakeshore to fish with each of us having thrown out baits on the bottom. We spent the better part of the day discussing a variety of topics including business ownership, politics, societal issues and religion. I found him to be perceptive and inquisitive having asked my opinion on a great many things. He was of the Mormon religion and while discussing matters of faith I was careful not to cast condemnation on the Latter Day Saint church. But eventually I had to ask how it could be that they believed that only Mormons go to Heaven when Jesus had explicitly said "whosoever believe in me shall not perish". This was an obvious contradiction and if that was wrong then what else are they teaching which is wrong?
The day was sunny and fine and we chatted away and eventually caught 2 small fish which Kyle cooked and ate. I will certainly count him as a friend and an enjoyable companion. The question will always linger in my mind.......Did the goat kick me out of the Lakes Chain so I could meet with Kyle? Another divine appointment?
I pulled out at 3:30 P.M. after having prayed with Kyle and made my way to Lake Susan only a scant few miles away. At the campsite where I stayed previously I noticed a fellow with no tent but rather laying under a tree in a sleeping bag. My first thought was that it might be Kyles dad and I approached and struck up a conversation. It was not Kyles dad but rather a thru hiker from Kentucky named Rick. We chatted for over an hour and I learned some things from him about the John Muir Trail located in the high Sierras of California. I had been inclined to eventually hike that trail and Rick was a fount of information. Since he was from the Louisville area we agreed to meet at the St James art show in a couple months and, after getting his email, I continued on down the trail another mile or so. I was desirous of a short day on the morrow since I didn't want to be late for the bus pick up to Seattle and my flight home the next day.
Day Twenty - 8/25
I had a tough go of it last night. Cold and very long are the words which best describe it. I got into Stevens Pass at 9:30 A.M. and had to wait until 10:00 for the coffee/gift shop to open. My ride wasn't until 2 P.M. so I had some time to kill. I purchased a nice new clean shirt and a favorite new hat. Then I grabbed some baby wipes and tried to clean up as best I could. I struck up a bit of a friendship with the young lady barista and she was very kind and let me use her phone so I could call the bus service to insure that they would stop. Stevens pass was not a regularly scheduled stop and was "on demand".
I went outside and was approached by a young gal backpacker who had remembered me from the trail some 10 days ago at Deception Lakes. She had just soloed the "J" section of the PCT which I had also done but she did it in much better time. I congratulated her and we spent some time conversing. It turns out she was also a Christian and she shared with me how her life had dramatically changed from train wreck to being blessed.
At 1:00 P.M. I thought it high time to assume the position of "bus watcher". I clenched my ticket in my hand and was going to wave it at the driver so he wouldn't think I was just another hitch hiker. A lot was riding (pardon the pun) on getting picked up. My hotel in Seattle was already booked and an early flight out on American Airlines. At exactly 1:55 the driver showed up and away we went. And with that I knew I could relax. Thus ended my 20 day Alpine Lakes Wilderness walkabout.
Thanksgiving
* I have the very best woman in the world. It is without complaint or grudging that she understands my need for outdoor pursuits.
* NWhikers forum was absolutely instrumental in helping me flesh out what was logistically expedient and practical. A friendly bunch and I owe them a debt of gratitude.
* HiLakers forum was also extremely helpful in providing me information which enabled me to achieve some consistent success while fishing.
* Lastly but most importantly of all I thank the Lord of Heaven and earth. Who am I that he should be mindful of me? An astonishing thought.........but of a truth I perceive the hand of the Lord guiding me along the way.
