Beaverhouse Lake
I met Darrel Brauer (A.K.A. Kingfisher) in the town of Superior Wisconsin promptly at 8 a.m. and we loaded the boats and gear and were on our way by 9. We recieved some rather curious looks from the Canadian border agent when we admitted to have never actually met in person and had corresponded via internet and were now embarking on a two week paddling excursion in Quetico Provincial park. He cocked his head, gave us the eye and waved us through.
We made decent time and arrived at Beaverhouse Lake landing with enough time to check in at the ranger station if we were to hurry. Darrel made haste so to check in while I had to wait for another party to load up and depart the parking lot which was rather full. This slight delay was a decisive factor in the initial division of our forces. The last I saw of Darrel was as he paused before going around an island so to be sure that I knew the proper way. All was fine until I hit the 1/2 mile stretch of open water which was moving along rather well with modest whitecaps. While the conditions were not terrible they could become so rather quickly if the wind decided to increase. I weighed the risk/ reward.........if I swamped I was looking at a couple mile drift before I would hit land. In the end I chickened out.
Some time passed and in my mind it had become clear that I had missed the chance to check in for that afternoon. The day was starting to wane, the wind had increased and there was no sign of Darrel. What to do? I decided to find a campsite so off I went around the big bay and figured we would meet the following morning at the Ranger station. I found a nice little beach site and set up. Later, while I'm sitting on my stool next to the water munching an apple I hear a motorboat.........the vessel was laden with none other than my paddling associate and 2 First Nation folk. Come to find out Darrel had searched high and low for me having braved the increasing afternoon blow in search of yours truly. Eventually he enlisted the help of the motorboat and had come to the windward shore with the understanding that if I had swamped I would drift to this shoreline. I was, of course, oblivious to all such concerns and had resigned myself to meeting him in the morning. After a brief explanation which included the admission that (unlike himself) I was not Superman but rather a mere mortal. The comment was taken in good humor as the two First Nation fellows smirked and soon the aluminum vessel took flight, pounding loudly on the waves before gaining plane. Darrel arrived some 1/2 hour later.......our trip starts with a miscue but no harm done. We settle in for what turns out to be a beautiful cool evening.
Day 2 (8/7)
Beaverhouse lake- 24r- 5r- 320r- Badwater Lake- 30r- Unnamed lake- 30r- Fair Lake- 30r- Your lake-167r- Snow lake- Little Pine lake- Trail lake- 60r- March Lake- Bentpine
I was up well before dawn drinking coffee and eating my oats. Darrel was up a full 45 minutes later but still beat me out of camp by 10 minutes or so. We paddled side by side and chatted away which led to a 1 mile navigation error. The minor miscues were to add up through the course of the day as we shall soon witness and make for a very big day indeed.
Bentpine Lake was our destination lake. Rumor had it that the walleyes would be patiently waiting. Ten portages including 2 close to a mile were between us, a layover day and walleye heaven. Our delays were to start right off the bat on the long and rocky portage into Badwater lake. I had carried my food packs across and had started back to retrieve my boat when I spooked a sizable animal off the portage trail. I was unable to ascertain what sort of critter it was but it was big and fast. Not big like a moose but more like a bear or a deer. It had not gone far when it stopped and I figured that I had better go back and keep an eye on my food pack until Darrel arrived. I waited and waited. It was a substantial delay since it was a long portage and after he arrived I had to make the long walk back to get my vessel. Not exactly the way you want to start a long day but I would of played it the same considering the potential consequences should a bear make off with a food pack.
A much larger screw-up occurred later in the day on the other long portage. The day was starting to slip away and dopey me had neglected to clip my map case onto my pack for transport like I normally do. Instead I ended up clipping it to my boat and naturally it pulled off right near the start. Darrel waited patiently while I had to walk the entire trail over again to retrieve it.
Our time was starting to become short and the threat of the evening mosquito onslaught loomed in the not to distant future as we increased our paddling pace. Darrel was the faster portager between us and it was agreed that he would seek out a site on Bentpine. After pointing out our destination campsite he went off to see if we would be able to check in. I arrived some 15 minutes later to what would be our home for the next day or so. We had cut it a bit thin but we managed to get set up and eat some much needed dinner before the winged menace awoke for their nightly rounds. It was a very enjoyable 2nd day for me despite being anything but a well oiled machine. I slept very hard all night being rather tuckered. Tomorrow is a layover day. Hopefully the fish will feel like biting as I think I am in the mood for a pile of walleye filets.
Day 3 (8/9)
Layover day
A bit gloomy and cool to start the day and neither of us seemed to be in a particular hurry to wet a line. We drank a fair amount of coffee, chatted away and tidied up camp. Darrel showed me his food hanging system he employed to foil the always hungry bears which can occasionally prove troublesome to a campers food supply. I was really quite impressed with the double pulley system.
We pulled out around 10ish with Darrel heading to s spot where he had had previous luck. I being an independent sort decided to check out the local talent around camp. Three hours and 2 walleye later found me down at Kingfishers spot where he was proving that his feathered friends moniker namesake was well deserved. Every time I looked up he was either fighting or landing a fish. He related to me a certain satisfaction in having found the thick pod of walleyes. I got in on the "tail" end of the action and quickly scored on three or four.
Having in no uncertain terms accomplished the goal of a walleye dinner we made our way back to camp. The day only got better as my partner had a few culinary tricks up his sleeve. I was instructed to gather some firewood which I hastily procured and then watched as onions were sautéed over an open flame. They were set aside while bite sized pieces of fish were next to hit the flame. Eventually all was mixed together with generous slathering of salsa and fish tacos were born. I ate 2 large soft tortilla and was quite content. Next on the fire was a big pot of hot water which made dish cleaning a breeze. I have always relied on a stove but now have a better understanding of the benefits a fire can offer.
The rain had held off, the wind had laid and off I went once again in search of Mr Big. One bite at magic hour was my hope but it was not to be. I retired late and was punished by the mosquitos quite severely for my lack of punctuality. Changing into my sleeping clothes under a virtual cloud of the little devils provoked a little manic laughter from me as I dived into the safety of the no-seeum mesh. Ten minutes of search and destroy within the confines of the tent and a further 10 minutes of thought soon had me out like a light. Another interesting day to reflect upon.
Day 4 (8/10)
Bentpine lake -March Lake- 25r- 35r- Bentpine Creek- Sturgeon Lake
I awoke once again right at dawn and soon had my pathetic instant coffee hot and ready to drink. I remember liking it previously but what I likely enjoyed was the generous helpings of cream and sugar which inundauted the hot water. I had since given up on the white death. The instant has now lost its appeal but I was still glad to have it. We had a pleasant unhurried morning and conversed away acknowledging that we had a fairly short paddle day on the agenda. From Bentpine lake we followed Bentpine Creek and I found the little run to be magical. The day was sunny and calm and we hit the large body of water named Sturgeon Lake under ideal conditions. Darrel had suggested pressing on but I on the other hand wanted to fish the lake because the conditions were so agreeable. I had wanted to share a campsite near the mouth of the Maligne River which I had stayed at a decade earlier. I had remembered it being quite stellar with an eloborate fire pit and pine needle strewn tent sites. When we arrived it was anything but stellar with the impressively constructed fire pit having been dismantled and the tent sites being littered with branches. It saddened me a bit and I thought of a fine and grand home which had fallen into disrepair.
Darrel suggested a mid lake campsite some miles distant and after pointing the site out on a map and pointing it out we struck out across the big body of water. About 1/2 way across a whisper of wind caught my attention and it wasn't long before I was hightailing it to the shoreline. Weather conditions can turn on a dime and a mile from shore is no place for a solo canoeist who lacks big water confidence. Alas, poor Darrel who eventually looks behind to find not a soul in sight, as if I had literally vanished from the surface of the water.
I had pulled into a small reedy cove and had decided to troll my way to the campsite. That was, after all, my usual mode of travel and I was starting to miss it. Surely, I rationalized, that Darrel would realize that I would eventually arrive but just a little bit later. I trolled into the large bay where Jean Creek entered and had wanted to walk the portage but a large white swan seemed intent on blocking my way so I gave in rather easily and bypassed the confrontation. Along I went, rod tucked neatly into my rod holder when bingo a fish connection was made. A nice fat walleye was a welcome sight since I was fairly famished. I pulled up to a small island to have a shore lunch and it was here where I met Darrel. He expressed his surprise at having found me quite literally disappeared and expressed his concern. We had an amiable discussion and then he left off to set up camp and I went about the business of frying fish. I was hot, sweaty and smelly so after my shore lunch I spent some time cleaning up which was quite refreshing.
I eased around the corner and the site was just as nice as described. I feel blessed indeed to be in the Quetico and with such a fine gentleman who is sharing his knowledge and expertise. I set up camp and kicked back for a while enjoying the big red pines and the elevated views the breezy site afforded. Another spectacular and excellent day in the books.
Day 5 (8/11)
Sturgeon lake- Maligne River- 52r- 64r- 42r- Poohbah creek- 40r- 64r- Poohbah Lake
I awoke and started packing some 45 minutes before dawn and still got beat out of camp by my lightening fast compadre. A stationary front had stalled and turned our sunny day into a gloomy one. The clouds lay thick above us and Sturgeon had but a slight ripple. The conditions lent themselves to open water paddling and the 2 miles to the mouth of the Maligne River were covered promptly. The plan was to travel down the Maligne river and up Poobah creek and gain access to another large body of water, that being Poohbah lake. We hit the Maligne river in good time and I noticed the water was substantially higher than when I had travelled it some years before. My moving water experience was very minimal and the heavy conditions caused a pause in me. Mostly I was concerned about dumping my boat and losing my stuff or having the boat get damaged......trip over. On the other side of the coin the water looked like it could be fun and thus was my conundrum. Darrel offered very helpful and sage advice and the first few sets of rapids were either floated through or portaged around rather easily. My hemming and hawing had started to prove irksome however and when I stopped at one portage to evaluate the map to make sure we didn't blow by Poohbah creek the last straw had been reached by my normally patient partner........."Let's go" came the firm determined voice. I replied that we should view the map but a rather more emphatic "LETS GO" was the only retort. We went back and forth a few times and the proverbial Mexican Standoff had ensued. Finally I became exasperated and suggested that I would meet him at Poohbah lake and he needn't wait for me. Things had gotten a little tense mostly due to my lack of confidence, tendency to overevaluate and my strong independent streak. Things were soon mended however and a new inside joke was born........."Lets's go" became the new battle cry and was employed whenever fitting.
Another great travel day was upon us. Very little wind, a bit cool and overcast but no rain made for exceptional paddling conditions. Poohbah creek was an absolute delight to paddle and after the little run we found ourselves on enormous Poohbah lake. Several large islands obscured the enormity and we both commented on how we were expecting the lake to feel larger. Next up was to find a campsite. Of great surprise to us were the number of other campers. At least 2 other obvious campsites were taken. We checked out a marginal site that would of worked in a pinch but we had become spoiled and since it was early we pressed on. We checked out an island site that was a fly-in fish camp. Numerous motor boats lined the shore but fortunately there were no clients to disturb our plesant repose. Darrel pulled out his handy monocular and noticed a bare spot on another island which looked promising. Home sweet home! It was an absolutely ideal place which was not far from our exit and proved to have exceptional fishing just a stones throw away.
We set up and then threw our gear into our boats and went in search of something to tighten our lines. Darrel out fished me once again having found a hot reef. I was rather stubborn and hardheaded and preferred to seek out my own spots until I was rewarded with several walleyes in the 22" class. I also caught one pike just over 30" but what was very nice was one heavy lake trout right at dark which went 8 lbs on the boga. Quite an unusual coloration from what I had seen in the Quetico in the past with the fish being very darkly colored. The fish was a bit of a disappointment however and proved to be a bit of a weakling for such a good fish.
I was punished severely once again for my habit of fishing until dark by the winged menace but some habits just won't die. Sun up should prove interesting as we have decided to take on one of the named portages of the park and make our way to roughly the center of the park and the legendary walleye factory which is Conmee Lake. How hard could it be?
Day 6 (8/13)
Poohbah Lake- 200r- unnamed- 300r- unnamed- 280r- Conmee Lake
Another early start........paddling right at 7;15 proved beneficial. Today was the 3 long portages done back to back to back with only smallish lakes seperating each leg. The "Memory Lane" portages were significant due to their almost a mile length for each leg. That meant some 9 miles of portaging since you must walk each leg 3 times.......once across with your food pack, a return trip and then your canoe comes across.
The first leg went just fine in spite of the trail seeming to end in a beaver pond. A walk up a small rocky brook of sorts soon reveals the proper way. We paddled the first small lake and stopped at what appeared to be the portage landing. The placement corresponded with precisely what the map dictated and a small tree which had been cut by a saw and had left a stump was another solid clue. Although there was a trail it seemed little used. We followed it until the path became obscured by a blow down and then became even more faint further on. Something wasn't setting right with me and I made my way back to my canoe. The other trail was well worn.......did people turn around at this point? I started paddling about while Darrel followed what I suspected was an old trappers trail. I decided to investigate the entire length of the lake and lo and behold at the opposite end of the lake from what the map showed lay the trail. I returned and had lunch while my partner worked out a way having found occasional blazes. He returned some time later and was intent on giving it a go. I replied that would be fine and I would meet him on the other side. We shared a laugh and our lightness of heart was quickly restored as we made our way to the mismarked portage landing.
Finally we arrived at Conmee. Our partnership had made decent time across coming in at about noon with yours truly a good 1/2 hour behind. I was intent on pacing myself lest I have a fall. All was done under ideal conditions and I would admit to a certain delight in crossing the Memory Lane trio.......I rather thought they were a pleasant walk.
Darrel had went to set up camp and I promptly trolled up a 33" pike which was promptly filleted. Dinner was soon served and we both went out fishing. We compared notes afterward and again Darrel was top dog having caught 4 quality fish........2 nice walleye, 1 18" smallmouth bass and one fat pike. I on the other hand had caught only 2 piddly pike. Kingfisher was fishing shallower, slower and with smaller lures. I was fishing deeper, faster and with larger lures. From my perspective he was fishing a spring pattern. My mind should of informed me that the water temps were low and the fish had not been pushed into deeper water........my heart was telling me to use what had worked in the past.
Day 7 (8/14)
Layover
We had some discussion the night before about our plans and decided on another layover day. I had fared quite well yesterday on the work but was feeling a little beat today. My chief concern was for my back and the position we would be in should it decide not to cooperate with the program. Darrel has already been out fishing and promptly brought back a 27" walleye for a picture. I was glad to finally see a big walleye caught on the camera.
I spent the morning and early afternoon in camp. I needed some rest and recuperation. Darrel had continued the morning fishing but had only the 1 bite so he decided on a day trip to Suzanette and suggested I accompany him. I declined knowing that I should rest and besides my heart was set on unlocking the big walleye key that I had read so much about.
Darrel returned in the afternoon having put the hurt on the lake trout. I learned how to cook laker in tin foil over a fire and we stuffed ourselves. It was all very satisfying. I went back out after dinner and connected with my one and only quality walleye which weighed 5.5 on the boga.
Day 8 (8/15)
Conmee- 13r- 140r- 288r- 193r- Delahey lake- 24r- Veron lake- 22r- 52r- 172r- Camel lake
I felt rejuvenated after my rest day and was ready to tackle another tough set of portages. The "Death March" trio that led into Delahey lake were long but not to arduous. Again the reader should take note that all was done under ideal conditions. These trails could be very tough indeed during hot weather or if wet. By now Darrel had come to trust my navigation skills and understood that I felt comfortable and could take care of myself so he sped on ahead after we agreed on a meeting place. Another "miscue"developed after the Death March portages had been completed. We had set our sights on getting to Camel lake. I entered Delahey lake without a care in the world........the day was sunny and even a little warm. I paddled away transfixed by the beauty around me. My map showed a sizable cut which would lead to the Veron portage. Unfortunately I had assumed to much and blew past the the small slot and went at least 1 mile past it all the while convinced it had to be further ahead. Finally I knew that I had blown it and had to backtrack all the while now paying close attention to my whereabouts. The slot was filled with reeds and practically indistinguishable from the shoreline. I could excuse that error but I no sooner entered the channel when I talked myself out of the next turn convincing myself it was a small bay. I soon came to a "T" of sorts and knew I had again made an error. I turned around just in time to spot Darrel who was making his way back to search for me. He had went through and organized his pack his pack and had even taken a nap waiting for me. It was fortunate indeed that our paths crossed when they did!
Onward we went to Camel Lake where I once again give Kudos to Mr Brauer for finding one of the only campsites on the lake. Even though it had been a long hard day I still took a little spin to see if Mr Big was around. My nemesis the mosquito were quite content to await my arrival and as per my custom I was once again punished severely.
Day 9 (8/16)
Camel lake- 4r- Nan lake- 8r- 18r- Cutty Creek- 90r- Fred Lake- Sturgeon lake
Today we decided on looping back to Sturgeon Lake and staying at the western end near a place called "The Narrows". An internet acquaintance had suggested a campsite to Darrel that had some special appeal (thanks Jimmar). And it was here we set our sights. The run up Cutty Creek was a delight as was the paddling on Fred lake and Sturgeon lake. All was once again done under ideal conditions, winds mostly calm and temps quite comfortable. The campsite was fantastic with exceptional elevated views in several directions. After setting up we sallied forth once again in our pint sized vessels to a trio of islands. Darrel was quickly into fish on a shelf of sorts and caught a fish on almost every pass. Of course I had to find my own fish but could not find a similar spot and had to grudgingly accept fishing someone else's spot. The fish were there howbeit of only average size. It was a big fish spot in my book but they didn't make an appearance. Definitely a spot to keep in mind. Another absolutely fantastic day in the books!
Day 10 (8/17)
Sturgeon lake- 20r- Lonely Creek- 24r- Lonely lake- 300r- Yeh lake- 4r- Little Jean Lake- Jean Lake- 80r- Burntside lake
I awoke pre-dawn as had been my custom and started breaking camp. We breakfasted and discussed strategies. We decided on Burntside Lake as our destination with 2 possible routes. Option 1 included a 1mile portage and several smaller portages. Option 2 meant paddling enormous Sturgeon lake and following Jean Creek. I joked about the "Death Swan" but what really had my attention was the wind. It was early morning and it was already breezy. We both decided on the portage route. Darrel left first and I waited for an Alleve to kick in to help my back.
I had made the correct call as the wind was kicking big time and I was so very happy to be going up Lonely Creek to Lonely Lake. The mile portage was the easiest of all the milers we had done but things got interesting on Jean lake where I got to bob around on large swells as I made my way to the Burntside portage. Darrel admitted that he was surprised to see me as i had shied away from heavy water before. My thinking is easy to understand........dump far from shore and your in a bad way, close to shore not so bad.
Darrel had gone ahead and had set up shop on a honey of a site, just beautiful! In the afternoon it calmed a bit and of course I went fishing. I caught several nice walleye but just before dark right near our campsite I got the strike I had been looking for. I had already caught 3 pike in the 33" class and all were handled rather quickly. This fish hit in 15ft and I could barely pry it off the bottom. When it ran the boat followed. I was distraught (understatement) when the line was either cut or broke. Oh well, that's fishing!
Day 11 (8/18)
Burntside lake- 80r- Jean- 30r- 19r- Quietico lake
It had been breezy all night and that had our attention since we had to paddle across sizable Jean lake. I had seen it yesterday and there was no way I was making the open water crossing in anything other than a light chop. Fortunately the wind laid down at exactly the right time and the 1.5 hour paddle on Jean was accomplished easily. Darrel had stopped to evaluate some campsites and he had even tried to troll up a lake trout but nothing doing. I awaited his arrival at the portage to Quetico Lake. I had felt especially strong on the paddle that morning and had made good time.
We travelled down Quetico lake and for the first time since Poohbah Lake we encountered other paddlers. The day was sunny and we paddled side by side and chatted away. As the day wore on the wind increased and the easy going had become a memory. We pulled up short of our destination campsite and it proved to be a good call. I dumped my bags on the shore set about trying to secure a fish dinner. It took an hour but I managed a small but welcome pike and a fat walleye. We added some wild rice and it ended up a good meal indeed. After dinner we set forth eager to make a fish connection. I caught exactly zip while my fish catching machine partner popped a dandy 42" northern which he measured up against the boat. I was happy for him and my only regret was that I was not around to snap a picture.
The evening looked ominous and I suspected a major rainstorm. I had been predicting rain almost daily for most of the trip......my usual on target prognosticating abilities having fled had made me the subject for mild mockery. Sooner or later I had to be right! My predictions once again proved anti climactic in spite of the rumbling of thunder and at 1 a.m. the rain which finally did arrive was barely enough to wet the rainfly.
Quetico lake-14r- Cirrus lake
I was out of camp my usual 1/2 hour behind. We had agreed to meet at Cirrus lake which was only 1/2 day easy travel. I enjoyed Quetico lake more than I thought I would and will have to spend more time in the future on the multi fingered body of water. Once again Darrel had selected an absolutely ideal campsite which is reason in and of itself to return to this darkly colored body of water. I spent a fair amount of time collecting and processing wood since we had decided to stay a day or two here. Kingfisher had decided to fish and he left rather soon after setting up. I liked the site and decided to spend most of the day reading, writing and drinking coffee and eating cliff bars.
Darrel returned in the afternoon with a smile from ear to ear. He had had quite a day. He related a reef he had rather stumbled upon and had taken several very quality walleye off of it. Proof of his success resided in the grand slam of fish filets which we had a very difficult time in consuming. We sampled every spice that he had brought.......all very tasty.
I slept very poorly due to a full moon which beamed down upon me........that and I had not tuckered myself out with exertion during the day but rather had taken it easy. I began to think about my upcoming obligations in Chicago and despite the newly found reef I decided to see how Darrel felt about leaving a day early.
I am always careful to thank my understanding and lovely wife and not take her for granted that she so easily gives her blessing to my outdoor adventures.
I also want to thank Summer for advocating Tiger balm which was a great help for my back.
Many thanks go to my tripping partner Darrel Brauer. It was truly a pleasure to be in his company in spite of the whipping I took in the fish department ( I hope to repay the favor some day).
And most importantly I want to thank the Lord of heaven and earth. Some three weeks before the trip I hurt my back to the point that I had to pay someone to help me tear down at an event. I seriously thought about canceling but felt like the Lord would be with me and the peace that passes understanding and the wisdom that comes from above would be available. Ever faithful is the Prince of Peace.
