I had barely gotten to sleep and then it was time to wake. It was 3A.M. and time to take Lori and mary to the Minneapolis airport. I was grateful for the early start as the envisioned nightmare of rush hour was still but a mirage. I arrived at Judy's Cafe in Two Harbors some 3 hours later and was at moose Lake in a little over 4 hours. Quite the contrast to the 22 hours it usually takes from Michigan.
My eagerness to arrive at Prairie Portage was tempered by the fact that my entry date was not for 2 more days. Would they let me in early? They might let me in 1 day early I reasoned but probably not 2. I found a beautiful campsite on Moose lake and decided to hole up. Points surrounded by water on 3 sides are far and away my favorites. This site also had the most perfect landing I had ever seen. Fishing that evening was poor. I marveled however at the new depth finder and just how nimble the big boat was. Trolling a contour line was going to be a blast.
I had spent the early afternoon reading Cheryl Strayed's book "Wild" and after some evening fishing I continued reading far into the night by headlamp. This girl is a train wreck I thought. I couldn't help but juxtapose her with my wife of 24 years who is the finest person I know of. Nevertheless, the prose and subject manner were engaging and the hours slipped by.
DAY 2/Aug 5
The wind had honked mostly all night and I awoke to a delicious coolness. The wind had blown the clouds and the heat out and with it the humidity. I struggled to get out of my down bag. The toastiness of down booties reenforcing my reluctance. More reading, lots of coffee and zero bugs made for a very pleasant morning. Even the drone of an occasional water taxi couldn't dispel the magic of the morning.
After a modest bowl of oats I was off. Just before the Canadian ranger station called Prairie Portage I eyed a couple of coves of drowned timber. "Might be some nice largemouth bass in there" I muttered aloud. I had barely paddled an hour but I was already feeling tired. What a putz I thought. I pulled into a campsite just around the corner from the portage. A debate ensued. Part of me wanted to set up camp again. I was already hungry, the wind was cranked up, the drowned timber in the coves called softly. Besides, my permit wasn't until tomorrow. After a raisin bagel slathered in Nutella the other part of me found its footing......."Come on, lets get going"...........In the end I pictured the big waves on Basswood and how an early morning start would be so much more relaxing. I laughed as I thought about taking 2 days to paddle Moose lake. Time for some more reading under the shade of a tree, life is good!
The drowned timber in the coves looked promising. The larger of the two had weeds and bait but no takers. I trolled and cast the basin and found a wall which had some local residents, all smallmouth bass.....mostly piddly with one decent one crashing the party. I returned to camp before the mosquitos took flight as it seemed the site could be buggy if it were so inclined. After some more reading I nodded off only to be awakened by a bright light shining through my tent wall. It reminded me of a flashlight but I knew it was the moon, big and bright. This needs to be a night fishing trip and I considered making my way into North Bay the following day. Go far and work my way back seemed like a sound strategy. Better double the food ration come morning.
The morning was dribbling away. I had been drinking coffee and reading. As I finished part 3 I let out a loud deep chortle. It reminded me of how Santa Claus might sound after stuffing some bad kids stocking full of coal....."Ho, Ho Ho".........I was already pushing the thought of "no book to read, what now" away. Time to get rolling. At Prairie Portage I came across an elderly couple trying to get their kayaks across via wheeled aids. Of course the concept was folly and probably illegal in the Quetico as well. My eyes widened when they said they had lots of portaging to do. Before they shoved off I tried to plant a seed and save them some misery. ""I'm staying on Basswood" I exclaimed, "You could probably spend a whole week just paddling and exploring" I chirped optimistically. But of course he had a plan (Later in the week I spotted their Kayaks near Ranger bay).
I hit Bayley Bay feeling elated but with some apprehension. A storm was brewing and it was big whitecaps as far as I could see. I eased out into waves that would stop most canoes. But I was slowly finding out this was not most canoes. The big boat bobbed right along with only moderate concern of broaching in the surf. "Nice" I softly said while I pulled into the lee of Sunday Island. I thought about donning my poncho and eating a Cliff Bar while the storm hit. My destination had been North Bay but then I started considering......"what if this was the start of 2 days of rain"? Up went the rain tarp and a new home was established. Of course the cell passed and the wind laid but I like my new home and I might even stay a few days.
DAY 4/Aug 7
The spirit is willing but the flesh is weak. I am again stuck in my sleeping bag all while peering out at the faint predawn light knowing I should be on the water. More reading, writing and drinking coffee.This could be my new tripping style......move 2 miles, set up camp and read. HA! But the fun will soon be coming to an end as I am 3/4 of the way through her book. Perhaps then I will get serious about putting some good sized fish in the boat.
According to my phone it is 1P.M.. I had turned it on to see if I had service and was just able to say "Hi Honey" before she was dropped. I have been sitting in camp all day. Finished up with Miss Strayed book and enjoyed it tremendously. It was obvious she has a knack for words or spent an inordinate amount of time in the books writing.......most likely both.
My site is a mess. Strewn about with the mornings goings on. Evidence of a breakfast, a shower/bath of sorts, sundry clothing tossed about and a miserable attempt at some lemon poppy seed muffins all on full display. Time to reorganize and hopefully catch a few small walleyes in Sunday Bays weedbeds for tonights dinner. Then an early start and off to North Bay in the morning.
August fishing jinx? Not only was it officially over it had been certifiably crushed. Yesterday afternoon I fished Sunday Bays weedbeds for the small walleyes i knew resided there. No dice. On a whim I walked North Portage (no small walleyes there either). Instead I turned my attention to a reef I had found the previous day in Bayley Bay. Each pass over the reef resulted in a walleye. The bigger ones were on the edges in 39ft and the smaller ones were on top in 24ft. Fortunately I don't think anyone was around as my hootin and hollering on the big ones probably carried quite a ways. A personal best in the quetico came aboard at 7lbs as well as its near twin at 6.5. Several 4lbers added to the fun as well as a healthy dose of 18 inchers kept my line tight. This was by far the best walleye fishing I had ever experienced out of a canoe. The closer it got to dark the better they bit. I suspected they would continue biting after dark but after an hour and a half of reeling fish in I had had enough.
This morning is gloomy and cool and it seems like it wants to rain. Time for a walleye breakfast and then hit the trail. Seems a pity......I have worked hard and found an excellent smallmouth area as well as a walleye reef. Both spots are loaded. The fish seem to be very concentrated. The new depth finder has been key. Not only telling me the depth but helping ascertain the makeup of the bottom. Trees, weeds, rocks, hard or soft bottom and of course fish all show in amazing detail. Cheating? You bet!
Before leaving my island home I decided to do a little exploratory and found another site I like even better. "Can't wait to take the guys here" I opined. As I examined the canoe landing my eyes fell on a canoe paddle. This was not an ordinary paddle but a carbon fiber bent shaft. For all intents and purposes it looked like a gift. After all, I reasoned, no one has been here for 2 days. Still, I could not bring myself to take it. I will be back this way in 7 days and if no one has claimed it by then it will have a new owner.
Time to see if I can make North Bay, set up as well as catch a few fish along the way and do it all before dark. I give myself a 50/50 chance and won't be surprised either way.
What a day! Thank you Lord! Bayley Bay was flat calm and I shot across the middle making good time. A right turn and I was in Merriman Bay. Todays lure du-jur was an old favorite. A rainbow trout colored long A bomber. On the 30lb braid I was ticking bottom in 35ft of water. Round we went, my old friend and I, along the 30 and 40ft contour lines in Merriman bay. Within 10 minutes I had a humongous strike, epic in its savagery. The long 8' rod with the line counter reel had bent double very quickly indeed. In a few short minutes I was eye to eye with a pike of about 37 inches.....all nasty teeth with a malevolent and unpredictable nature. I thought caution was the better part of valor and I towed the fish to shore where I got out to release it. It was long and lean but thick across the back with a sizable head it was a respectable catch at 9lbs on the boga grips certified scale. Fun!
I continued along in Merriman Bay following the tips of the islands until one island that was on the map failed to show. "Lousy mapmakers" had been my initial inclination. I hadn't even considered bringing a compass on this trip. Onward I went towards what I hoped would be Canadian Point when suddenly I had another awesome strike. I cranked what I thought would be another Pike up but instead it was a big, fat largemouth bass. Stunned, I stopped reeling. She looked at me and I at her......then she gave a great leap and threw off her captor. Imagine that, a big largemouth down at 30 ft.
My doubts persisted as to my location and I grabbed the map up. "Went here....Yup"......"then there, Yup"......"and then past the missing Island"..................."For Pete's sake just paddle around the corner and make a right". All was as I thought and I made my way around Canadian Point in the still calm conditions all while following the 30 and 40 ft depths. Another nice pike came aboard, a virtual twin of the first one. A third soon followed out of 60ft of water but it was smaller. Odd, I would of thought the biggest one would of come out of the deeper water but such is fishing. I continued on towards North Bay and in the area where Basswood narrows down I had another nice strike. Up comes another big beautiful walleye.......long and thick and weighing exactly 6lbs. Try as I might I was unable to revive the fish. This was not a fish to leave for the eagles and I sought for another group of campers to give the prize to.
Onward I went with a sudden freshening wind and glowering skies. My luck had held throughout the day but I knew it couldn't last. Finally I had arrived at North Bay. My ultimate destination was the north end of the bay and I was contemplating making my way around when suddenly I had de-ju-vu. I had been here before a few summers past while heading to a little secluded cove. I paused......I could continue on my pre-destined route with a few hours of paddling yet in increasingly poor weather all to arrive at a campsite that was likely already taken or I could paddle a brief distance and set up. The little rocky peninsula of sorts was unoccupied and I was delighted. I quickly set about setting up camp as rain seemed imminent. My timing couldn't of been more perfect. I even managed to cook and eat all but 2 pieces of the walleye. Everything was in order as darkness fell and the skeets took wing.
Soon after the rain started. I could hear it coming and it sounded like a living entity as it made its way. The deluge was fairly brief but intense. I drifted off to sleep but was awakened by a distinct noise coming from the direction of my dry bags. Instantly the memories of a bear that had left its track in the mud at the door to my companions and I tent and had batted around a dry bag and then snuffled inches from my arm with only a thin piece of nylon between us one rainy night a few years back came flooding in. "It's just the wind and the rain" I told myself until I became convinced otherwise. I sat up and unsheathed my Seal Pup knife. The fly on my tent fluttered creating a shadow directly in front of me and a wave of fear passed through me. "Dang bears.....why did I ever read that book about bear attacks"? I could of went through my outdoor adventures without a care in the world. Truly, ignorance is bliss. I donned my headlamp and quietly unzipped my tent door to observe all was exactly as I had left it.
I slept very well encased in a down and fleece and riding on a layer of air. I believe strongly in the restorative powers of a good nights sleep. I had put in a good days work yesterday and had felt good about it. My weak first days had been mildly disconcerting but I seem to be back to my old self. I think the many cups of Gatorade may have had something to do with my rebound.
The wind is unbelievably fierce this morning and my tarp is taking some punishment despite having used all my lines to secure it. I pity any canoeist who needs to make tracks today. It is also rather cold. I will give myself 2 days to paddle what took 1 day when I decide to return. Yesterday was a gift.
The wind honked mostly all day but I still put some time in and was rewarded with yet another 6lb walleye. The poor fish had eaten a muskie in-line spinnerbait and the 8/0 hooks had lodged in her gills. I knew she was done for as soon as I lifted her from the water and saw the flow of crimson. So far I haven't been especially kind to the inhabitants of the park. 2 big walleyes dead and earlier today I stepped full weight on a middlin sized toad. I like toads and encourage them on my property in Florida thinking they probably keep the bad spider population down.
I fished a few hours after dark last night but no takers. The wind had finally laid and the stars were out. Slept well, in fact to well and didn't roll out until the sun was over the horizon. An absolutely gorgeous morning. A cold front had piled through and it was now cool, calm and cloudless. Tough for fishing but good for relaxing and drinking coffee. Did I mention no bugs? I might learn to like this August tripping after all!
Today I will focus on trying to catch a lake trout. I have done a fair amount of trolling out deep but no lakers. What's up with that? I like catching them as they can tug hard. Tomorrow I'll pull out and portage into Dahlberg lake and try and connect with some smallmouths that have some shoulders. After that I'll drop back into Basswood but on into Ranger Bay. Looks like I will be bypassing my old stomping grounds but given my druthers I always like to go someplace new.
But first the lakers. I will be digging out a few tricks that I have brought along. I have an outstanding amount of tackle at my disposal both in terms of rods/reels as well as a virtual arsenal of lures and diving aids. I have no regrets and have in fact made it a point to try new things. What is a bit preposterous however is the amount of food I have brought. It probably stems back to the day my mother dropped my friends and I off at a gravel pit to fish for a day. We brought no food except for a lemon, fish fry and a few pieces of bread. Our intent was to cook the numerous perch that so frequently found their way onto our lines. Needless to say that nary a perch was to be had on that trip and we were miserable lads indeed. I have oatmeal, bagels and Nutella spread. I have Pan-Asian just add water dinners as well as just add water mac/cheese. How about ketchup, tortilla shells, rice, refried beans and salsa. Then there is fish meal and oil and numerous Cliff Bars and muffin mixes. Add gatorade, hot chocolate and buckets of coffee to wash it all down and a picture starts to develop. Funny thing is that I hardly eat.......breakfast and lunch sure but rarely any dinner. I'm laughing and shaking my head. In any event I'm well prepared for any errant Boy Scout Troop......."help yourself lads......there's plenty for all.....stay in line......don't push"
What a day! I geared up with a big dipsy diver and a flutter spoon and began dragging it in 70 and 80ft of water. What a workout even with the bigger boat. A few hours of that and I was done trying for lakers. To much work with no results. I came back to camp and decided for stealth mode. My 9' steelhead rod and 8lb green xt was the combo. I selected a lure that an on-line acquaintance had suggested. I had met Kurt (quetikurt) on a canoeing forum and during a few shared dinners he revealed his pet crankbait. Super guy, I hope to do a trip with him someday. Of course a big part of fishing is doing things your own way so I opted for my own choice when it came to color combos. Back out I went following the 20 and 30 ft depths that pike, bass and walleye are known to frequent. Rewards were quick to follow and I quickly boated 2 bass and 1 pike. Then "it" happened.........."KER-POW" and then "ZING" went my drag. My response was to gasp "Oh Momma". I knew Mr Big had shown up. The line surged deep, a sure sign of what a big fish does when it is in trouble. We went back and forth for about 5 minutes. I will never forget when I first laid eyes on the fish because it was so unexpected. There before me was a big fat Lake trout. The fish was belly up so I parked the boat and then sat in the water for close to an hour trying to revive the fish. When she stopped breathing I was miffed as I thought for sure she would recover. I felt absolutely sick about it and some of my joy was taken away. I went to a nearby rock point where I photographed and weighed the fish. She was between 14.5 and 15lbs. She beat my old mark by almost double.
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DAY 8/Aug 11
I slept like a rock but was finally up and at them before the sun cracked the sky. This morning is a total whiteout. Foggy as can be but I know it will burn off. I struck camp and was greeted by flat calm conditions. Time for a change in plans. I couldn't waste the opportunity to explore on such a becalmed day as this and decided to make my way around American point and into Ranger Bay but still wind up in Dahlberg lake but come in from the opposite side of the big peninsula. Off I went and soon came into a deep basin of sorts and caught several nice fish including another 9lb pike and several smaller ones. All were released with the exception of one unlucky shore member guest. The fish was excellent but the just add water Mac/cheese was so bad I literally couldn't eat it and was actually offended that such a company as Kraft would sell something so atrocious.
I had caught the pike and a good smallmouth by trolling a dipsy diver and a flutter spoon in 30 and 40ft of water and by the time I went around the point and into Ranger Bay I was feelin the effects of dragging the dipsy, it can certainly give you a workout.
Into Dahlberg I went portaging up and over a little hump and being hopeful the single solitary 5 star campsite was unoccupied. Hurrah, no one was home! I quickly checked in and set up camp. This site is a winner......shady, elevated and open with great views. Dahlberg is primarily a Bass and Pike lake and I will give them a go tomorrow. So glad for the wonderful day.
DAY 9/Aug 12
I was awakened in the wee hours of the early morning by what seemed to be a loud crashing sound. My mind went immediately went to my bear canister. I listened briefly before donning my sandals and doing the requisite investigation. All was as it should be with my canister inside a black stuff sack and doing a perfect imitation of a rock.
There is something special about this site. First off, the mosquitos are conspicuous by their absence. Secondly, there is quite a bit of wildlife activity. Birds and squirrels, loons and herons, otters and beavers, hummingbirds and whiskey Jacks have all made a breakfast appearance. I observed something sort of interesting this morning as a family of otters travelled the far shoreline of the little cove I am on. A Great Blue Heron would fly ahead of them and land on the bank until they were past and then fly ahead of them once again obviously hopeful the otters would push a fish into the shallows for an easy meal. I also thought it interesting when the otters clambered out onto the bank that it was the Heron, despite its size and large pointy beak, that gave ground. I have heard that otters can be tough customers.
I have been sitting at my "Table Rock" for almost 2 hours just taking it all in as the stillness of the morning works its magic. Thus the conundrum of going solo vs group. Had I been with my usual partners there would of been much lively banter and laughter but the soul easing peace and quiet of this very special morning would of been missed. Both scenarios have their own desirable aspects.....it is enough just to be out here.
It is now 9;35 A.M. and I am still puttering in camp. I spent some time on a cliff facing of sorts behind camp. A little walk through the woods and a little scamper up a moss covered game trail takes you to a very special place indeed with spectacular views. Time to clean up the breakfast dishes, put the camp in order and take the Expedition out for a little spin. Life is good!
That I would catch big smallmouths was a foregone conclusion in my mind. I had been saving this spot to focus on them exclusively. But so far all I had caught was a pair of 12inchers and they joined me for some fish tacos which were super good. I had found the reefs, I had jigged plastics but the largest smallmouth I had caught was 14 inches which I took out a weedbed after I resorted to fishing for largemouths. Hurrumph!!
Well, back to trolling the breakline. Away I went with a shiny silvery crankbait and then WHAM! Little by little the fish got bigger until I had my hands full on the 8lb line. Another nice pike. That was the 4th decent one on this trip, not bad for August I figured. Fifteen minutes later I thought I had mega-beast but it was just a mid sized piker of about 36" which was foul hooked. They can really pull when hooked up by the shoulders. Both of these pike were shallower, say about 25ft. In the evening I went back to jigging on the reefs. Endless small ones but where were the big boys and what did they want?
Back before dark to tidy up the boat a bit. I had thought to stay an extra day here but will likely pull up stakes and start making my way back. I was glad to have already given Ranger Bay a cursory look. Very pretty area. It seems like the mouth of the bay would be susceptible to wind and waves as the steep sides funneled waves. I will have to return to give it a better sampling some day. I will shoot for Merriman Bay tomorrow if the weather holds. So far it looks like things could get iffy, as if some front is on the move. A weather radio might be a prudent item on these sorts of trips where portaging is infrequent.
DAY 10/Aug 13
Awake very early and eager to get going. Is daylight ever going to come? The wind has been on and off all night. At the very least I will portage out of Dahlberg come morning. I had the tent and tarp struck before the sun was up. Just finished breakfast. Very overcast, wind light but for how long? Just getting into the swing of things and it's almost time to go home, figures.
After leaving Dahlberg I was crossing a deep basin of sorts and since the wind was light I flipped out a new crankbait. In 55ft of water I had a jolting strike......fish on! I was totally astonished when I landed a 3.5lb smallmouth. I could see fish on the bottom in 55ft on my depth finder so I made another pass and was rewarded with a 4lb smallmouth (the largest of the trip) again out of 55ft of water. I made a few more passes and another smallie showed up as well as a smallish pike. After filing all the info into my grey matter I continued around White Island. I was intent on checking out a campsite where some other fisherman had been staying. It was near the place where I had trolled up a nice walleye on the way in and when I had offered the fish they declined saying they were "full up". That caught my interest. Unfortunately some other campers had taken up residence but I continued on and popped a nice smallmouth near where I had caught the good Walleye. This new crankbait is the ticket, a real winner. The bad news is the blasted thing is expensive and it took me a while to pull the trigger. Now I wished I hadn't because I know I will have to have an assortment.
I put the lure away as the wind was kickin. I had made the run under flat calm conditions but now the payback was here. The big boat did great though and I arrived at Sunday island with a several hours of daylight left. The only time things got dicey was surfing big rollers which had been funneled into the gap of Sunday island, that caught my attention. The rest of the run was through a 2.5ft chop which made for some interest as I made my way. Unfortunately I did not arrive with my new favorite crankbait . Just past Canadian point I had hooked a real nice fish but the wind was wanting to blow me out to sea in a hurry and while fumbling around I had cut the line on my rudder. Lesson learned, bye-bye lure.
It is a good run from the Lake Trout spot to Sunday Island but entirely doable with the right mindset. Both trips I fished quite a bit and on todays route I made a foray into the back of Merrimans bay which was very nice. Now the question is if the wind will lay so I can make the paddle to the walleye reef at dark thirty. Last week was way to much fun and I had wished for some of my pals to have shared the experience with. But now I know so much more and should be able to share some of that experience. "First thing guys is to buy one of these crankbaits and deliver it to me unopened"..........."And then make sure you have one for yourself"........
And what of the paddle? Of course it is gone. Hopefully the original owner returned but if not perhaps it will be put to use. What do I need with 2 carbon fiber paddles? The wind is laying down nicely and after a second cup of hot chocolate out I go. The reef is more extensive than I had initially realized. I;m marking lots of fish but no takers. I had opted for braid and the big bomber lure but no dice. I can't help but believe if I had my new super secret crankbait and straight 8lb mono I would be haulin them in again. Still some value in tonight though as I spent some time looking the spot over (And it's mine, all mine, Muhahhahaha!!!).......ahem.
A fine beautiful morning. I have noticed more bird and squirrel activity on the nice mornings as opposed to the gloomy ones. I slept very soundly last night. I had to dig to make it back to camp last night after trolling but I settled in with only 2 skeets in the tent to have to launch the "search and destroy" mission against. The next time I awake it was morning. Wow! The wind must have taken it out of me yesterday. But I feel great and am ready to do it all again. Still some 8 miles or so left to paddle out, then onto Chicago. It has been a very pleasurable trip, superb actually and I am filled with gratitude to the Lord of Heaven and Earth who gives life and breath to all beings and is not reluctant in bestowing blessings.
